The Serpentine
Vitasta
by Prof. K. N. Dhar
FROM
times immemorial rivers in India have been treated
as sacred.
After the Aryan
occupation of the North when towns and cities
began to be built on the banks of rivers, their
utility could not be over looked. Hence by way of
gratitude the rivers were deified and varied
mythological background was woven around these to
justify their deification. It was believed that
the violent form of rivers in the shape of floods
etc could be averted by propitiation; Hence their
being elevated to godly position can be easily
understood. Whatever the religious importance of
these rivers, it cannot be gainsaid that the
economic gains the people derive from these rivers
are immense. The Nature worship as extolled in the
Vedas is the patent manifestation of the gratitude
the Aryans owe to her salutary aspect which
provided them peace and comfort in every sense of
the world. Hence in the Rgveda the Rsis have all
praise for the rivers.
In this Sukta direct
reference to Vitasta has been made along with her
prominent rivers of North India. Even in the
Mahabharata this river has received mention and
its sanctity even in those times attested. These
references go a long way in proving that this
river of Kashmir was very well known in India and
it was held in great respect being a Tirtha of
repute.
Nilamatapurana deals
profusely with the ancient geographical History of
Kashmir. This river has also been called the
"Nilja" the daughter of NilaNaga which
establishes its link directly with Nilanaga the
son of Kashyapa who drained out the water from the
"Satisar" and the land thus reclaimed
was named "Kashmir," and then handing
over the authority to his son, the Rsi set out for
pennance.
Kalhana also corroborates
this account. However, when the valley had become
waterless the need for water for maintaining life
was felt all the more, and in an allegorical
manner the birth of Vitasta has been desrcibed in
the Nilamata. The contact with pisacas had made
the inhabitants of the valley unclean, hence to
purify them Kashyapa requested Lord Siva to
prevail upon his consort "parvati" to
manifest herself in the form of a river. The
Goddess asked her lord to make an opening through
which she could come to surface after assuming the
form of a river. Thereupon Lord Siva struck the
ground near the abode of Nilanaga with his trident
which measured one "Vitasti" and through
this fissure the goddess parvati gushed forth in
the form of Vitasta. The name Vitasta was given to
her (this river) by Lord Siva himself. Lord Siva
made a fissure measuring a Vitasti and brought
forth this holy river out of the underworld.
However, Kalhana describes clearly that this
"Nila Kunda" was circular in shape which
acted as a "Royal Parasol" for the King
Nila. Different names given to this river are
Nilija, Nilakunda, and Vitasta, wheras last is
more famous and current from the earliest times as
shown earlier:
<verses>
The shape of this "Kunda"
is now octagonal perhaps due to the rennovations
made in it by later Kings especially the Moghuls.
No less than sixty rivers of Kashmir and Madra
have been referred to in the Nilamata. But amongst
them Vitasta wields the highest importance and
respect which can be testified by an account in
the Nitamata that this river twice disappeared and
only consented, to flow permanently when given the
company of other goddesses i.e. Ganga in the form
of Sindhu in Kashmir, Godavari in the form of
"Gudar" and Vishoka in the form of
Lakshmi. This very river Veshav has been described
as having come form the mousehole which at present
forms the waterfall of "Aharbal" famous
throughout the world.
This legend of
manifesting and then disappearing perhaps alludes
to more than one source of Vitasta. On second
appearance it began to flow from the Naga of
"Panchahasta" modern Panzeth in the
Divsar Tehsil of Anantnag district. The third
appearance took place from "Narasinhashrama".
Even in the "Vitastamahatmya" does also
mention its second source at "Vitastatra"
the present "Vethavotur" sit uated some
two miles below from Verinag to the north-west.
Next to Nilamata in
antiquity and credence is the Kavya of thirty two
cantos "Haracaritacintamani" by poet
Jayadratha Rajanaka brother of Saivacaraya
Jayaratha, who composed the saiva-treatise named a
"Tantra Lokaviveka". This Kavya of
Jayadratha gives a vivid description of
piligrimages of Kashmir and also reproduces
faithfully from "Nilamata" of course,
the origin of Vitasta-how it earned such a name.
It has been owned by
Kalhana himself that he had Nilamata before him
when he undertook to pen down his chronicle of
Kashmir kings. Therefore he follows faithfully the
account regarding the origin and the name of
Vitasta as given in Nilamata:-
<verses>
"This Kashmir is
protected by the king of all Nagas Nila, whose
Royal Umbrella represents the circular spring (Nila
Kunda) with Vitasta oozing forth form it as its
handle." However, he is silent about other
sources of this river after its disappearance
twice. This fact conclusively establishes that in
his time only Nilanaga was taken as the source of
Vitasta.
The texts eulogising the
places of piligrimages in Kashmir or even outside
are called Mahatmyas. Naturally such a sacred
river as Vitasta should have a Mahatamya. In this
respect, only two Mahatmyas in extant form are
available in the Kashmir Govt Research Library.
There might be other
Mahatmyas on this subject; if so, they are
confined to the personal libraries of the pandits.
Unfortunately these two Mahatmyas are not
historically dependable in as much as their
antiquity and contents are disputable. The text in
both with minor difference claims to narrate the
Tirthas along the course of the Vitasta. At the
very outset the Mahatmyas locate the source of the
river as Verinaga instead of Nila Naga the
established source by tradition and fully
described in Nilamata and Raja Tarangini. The
author has given the name of the village Veri Naga
in which this spring is situated. In course of
time this spring did come to be known as Verinaga
but it is of comparatively recent origin. It is
totally unknown in Nilamata and RajaTarangini and
Harcaritacintamani, the oldest texts. First
reference to this epithet "Vera" is
found in Moghul times.
So these Mahatmya's can
roughly belong to the sixteenth or seventeenth
centruy A.D. This is corroborated by the fact that
the name Saradapur or Shadipur occurs in it at the
confluence of Vitasta and Sindhu.
On the authority of Jona
Raja we know that this name was given to it by
Sultan Shahabudin patently a corruption from
"Shahabudin pura". The aim of the author
seems to bring it in line with its present name
"Shadipur". This pertains to the
fourteenth century A.D. it is probable that the
author being of recent origin had lost contact
with the old tradition and pretended to write
"Saradapur" etc only to anryounce his
antiquity while he actually knew that it was
called "Shadipur" in his time. Not only
this, the name of the famous Moghul garden, "Shalamar"
occurs in it, which was built by Empress Nur Jehan
wife of Jahangir, Emperor of India (1605-1627).
This conclusively proves that the author belongs
to seventeenth century A.D. However, in spite of
their comparatively recent origin, the Mahatmyas
do display a thorough familiarity with the older
texts and the current tradition prevailing in
their time.
Both these Mahatmyas
narrate at length the origin and source of this
river on the lines given in the Nilamata. It has
also furnished us with a lengthly list of Tirthas
located on its right and left banks.
So it becomes lucidly
clear that "Nilanaga" is acknowledged to
be the source of Vifasta by Nilamata, Haracarita
Cintamani, RajaTarangini and the Mahatmyas. We
have no justification in rejecting this most
ancient evidence.
However, there is one
moremarshy lake some three miles south of Yusmarg
a tourist spot, known as Nilanaga nowadays. This
is probably the source of Duda Ganga ancient
Dugdhaganga or 'Ksirasindhu.' Nilamata refers to
it as 'Ksiranadi' and the Mahatamyas as SvetaGanga.
This lake seems to be fed by snow and small
rivulets coming down from Pir Panchal range. It is
not defintely a Naga or a spring - a perennial
waterbasin, but an inundatory receptacle. It has
not enjoyed any significant sanctity, so the
Mahatmyas are silent about it. Abul-Fazal being
taken in by the similarity of the names has
ascribed all the legends to this lake instead of
Verinag. This confusion on his part has to a large
extent influenced the ancient tradition. Even
though in Nilamata itself two Nilanagas are
mentioned, but by no stretch of imagination, the
Vitasta can be taken as flowing from it. The route
of the Vitasta is quite different and the waters
from this lake meet it just below Srinagar. Till
then there is no contact between the two.
The present Shahabad in
Anantnag district was known as 'Vera' in the
ancient times. Abu-1-Fazal also records this very
name for this Pargana. " Hence it is no
surprise that the spring Nilanaga came to be known
as the 'spring' of vera or Verinaga also. The name
of the village came to be associated with this
spring and it could be located easily thus. Such
Nagas-springs which have the name of the village
or the locality in which they are situated
prefixed or suffixed with them are legion in
Kashmir. Abu-1-Fazal testifying to its sanctity
has recorded that many temples of stone were
erected near it. However, these massive temples of
stone are not there now, but a small Shivalaya
exists still there. These stones must have been
used for rennovation and enlosing the spring by
later kings. This fact can be easily discerned
even now. Moreover, a hamlet in the close vicinity
of this spring is still known as Verinag even now.
It has been explicitly mentioned in Nilamata
(762-66) that Vitastosava or the birthday of
Vitasta falls on the 13th of bright half of
Bhadrpada or Bhadoon, known in Kashmir as 'Vyetha
truvah." On this auspicious day offerings of
scents, garlands, and eatables are to be made into
the river itself. In Kasbmiri the Vitasta is
called " Vyetha" to-day.
It can easily be surmised
that the small stream coming out of Nila Naga or
Nila Kunda could assume the form of a big river
only when being fed by other streams coming in its
way. So a number of streams or rivulets join it
close to Anantang and the actual Vitsasta begins
to take shape. The present " Bringi "
stream called "Bhrngi" in ancient times
is the first to join its waters. From the
northeast " Arpath " stream mentioned in
Nilamata as Harsapatha, and from the west waters
issuing from springs of Achabal (ancient Aksavala)
meet the waters of Vitasta at Khanbal. From the
north ancient Ledari (modern Lider) also rushes
down with its voluminous waters to join this
confluence and the Vitasta flows down majestically
to Srinagar in all her glory.
From Khanbal the river
becomes navigable and in ancient times this was
the only dependable and profitable means of
transport to and from Srinagar, and so, many
important towns Tirthas and capitals came to be
built on its bank. Down below Khanbal on the right
bank of the Vitasta is situated the ancient Tirtha
of " Vijyeshvara " modern " Vejbror.
" Kalhana says that this Tirtha was built by
king Ashoka (Raja I, 105). About 3 miles down
below Khanbal the Vitasta is joined by 'Veshiva' (Visoka)
and Rembyar rivers and this junction known as
" Sangam " at present was in olden times
called " Gambhira Sangani." "Gambhira
" can literally mean " deep, "
since three big rivers meet at this Sangam, hence
it was called "Deep" (Gambhira). Dr.
Stein contends that the " Gambhira "
river as mentioned at different places in Raja
Tarangni is the short united course of "
Vesav " and Rembyar before it meets the
Vitasta but no such name occurs in Nilamata in the
description of rivers. In course of time the
prefix " Gambhira " has dropped and only
" Sangam" has remained uptodate. No
ruins whatsoever of the old Tirtha are seen above
ground these days. If excavations are taken up we
might unearth the temples built at this site by
the Guru " Mihirdatta " of king
Candrapida (A.D. 686-695).
Some miles below "
Sangam " the Vitasta with its replenished
waters flows close to the old city of Avantipur
founded by king Avantivarman (A.D. 855-883). Ruins
of two temples built of stone are seen there now.
The Srinagar - Jammu National Highway passes very
close to these. This town was very famous even
after the death of its founder and finds mention
in many chronicles including Raja Tarangini. In
the time of Avanti Varman the Vitasta was dredged
by one Suyya and its course regulated. The scare
of floods and famines looming large in the horizon
every year was averted. The price of one Khari of
paddy would shoot upto ten hundred and fifty
Dinaras. After these dredging operations were
completed, that very Khari would sell at 36
Dinaras only.
At a distance of five to
six miles below on the " Udar " itself
was located the city founded after the name of
Lalitaditya. Muktapida known as "Lyetpor
" today. Since this, town was built in the
absence of the King by his architect, so he did
not take kindly to it. At present no ruins of the
old city are seen above ground ; only lovely
saffon-fields standing on these Udars greet our
eyes. While coming down from these " Udars
" we see the Vitasta touch the fringe of
" Padampur " called " Pampur "
now-a-days. This township was built by Padma
brother of Jaya Devi a concubine of Lalita Pida
(A. D. 900) and a temple of Visnu was also erected
there. At this place the Vitasta takes a slight
curve towards the right just to be quite close to
Puranadhisthana (Kashmiri Pandrethan) the old
capital of Kashmir built by Praversena. At this
place the Buddhists and in turn Vaishnavas and
Saivas constructed their places of worship, the
remains of which lie scattered all over.
Down below by three miles
or less, Vitasta is joined by Mahasarit (Kashmiri
Mar, Tsunt Kol). In reality it is a canal diverted
from " Dal " lake, Skt (Dala), so that
its superfluous water joins the Vitasta. The level
of the lake is higher than the Vitasta and a
water- gate has been built at the head of the
canal to regulate the level of its water. It seems
that in those times also, some such system of
regulating its flow did exist Kalhana explicitly
mentions that Praversena II built the dyke (Setu)
around the Mahasarit and in an allegorical way
adds that the "Rakhsa's-knee" was used
to part the waters. The part of city which falls
in this locality is called Suthu even to-day.
Moreover, it can be inferred easily that the back
waters (Mar in Kashmiri) extended upto "
Khodabal " (Ksurikabala ) as used by "Kalhana".
In this virtual island was the temple of Maksika
Swamin known as " Mysum " nowadays. The
confluence of Mahasrit (Tsunta-Kol) with the
Vitasta was known as a Tirtha since very old
times. Bilhana in his Vikramankadeva Caritam (xviii,
28) says that the temple of Siva called
Ksemagaurivara was built at this confluence by
king Ksemagupta, (A. D. 950-958). Mankha refers to
it in his 'Srikanthacaritam' as "maha sarid
vitstyo sangam." While Srivara in his Zaina
Tarangini gives it more recent name "maari
sangam". Evidently this maari is the modern
maar which was a useful means of internal
transport and extended up to " Narvor "
(Skt Nadavana) before passing into the marshes of
the " Anchar Lake. "
One fact comes out
prominently while following the course of the
Vitasta from Khanbal to the city proper, that all
the important towns and Tirthas have been built on
the right bank of the river and, the left bank has
been ignored completely. There is a cogent reason
for this, in as much as, on the right bank
elevated 'udars' made these townships and Tirths
flood-proof, while on the left bank the river has
eaten into not very high and solid embankments and
thus marshes have been formed. Such land could
never be depended upon for construction purposes.
This fact can be witnessed even to-day. Just
before meeting Mahasarit, Vitasta enters into the
precincts of the city; perhaps the temple of
Shurahyar at the foot of Gopadari (Takhti Suliaman,
Shankara carya hill) joined the gateway to
Pravarapur (Srinagar). The dykes on both sides of
the river are built on solid foundations and also
at a considerable height, so that a flight of
steps commonly made of stone have been carved out
of these for reaching the river itself. The
approaches to the river are called " Ghats
" and have served from a long time as the
temporary bazars or "Mandis" for
vegetables, fuel and other necessaries of life
when the river transport was in vogue. Even to-day
the food rationing Depots run by the Government
are installed at these ghats and the barges
carrying heavy loads of rice, flour, and even
sugar are anchored there. The city of Srinagar is
also located on the two banks of this river at
present linked by many permanent bridges. However,
in olded times particularly during the Hindu Rule
permanent bridges were not built for fear of
invasion or of fire. Kalhana refers to at least
two bridges which were built by joining big
barges. He also asserts that it was Praversena II
who introduced this art of boat bridges and got
massive bridges of boats built at his new capital
Pravara pura." The making of bridges with
boats was as much important from defence point of,
view as from that of fighting outbreak of fire.
These boats could be disengaged at a very short
notice and the advancing army of the enemy could
not cross over to the capital, or the blazing fire
could not spread so easily.
Just a hundred yards or
so below the Marivitas-tasangama to the left, the
Vitasta is diverted into a smaller river called
occasionally Ksipt Kulya modern (Kuttokol). This
means the rivulet (Kulya) having been taken out of
Vitasta (Ksipta). 'Kut' In Kashmiri, means
inferior or artificial; since this stream was not
natural hence earned the name Kuta. This branch
again meets its source the Vitasta beyond the
seventh bridge. Just on this diversion stood the
old Palaces of Dogra rulers which have since been
takenover by the state Government and are used as
offices known is old Secretariat. On the left bank
of the river in front of these old Palaces
over-looking the Mahasarita-Vistasta Sangama is a
Vaishbnava temple called Gadadhara temple now-adays,
supposedly built by Dogra rulers. No reference to
this is found in any of the chronicles on Kashmir.
On this tract of land girdled by Vitasta on one
side and Ksiptika on the other, a virtual island,
presumably stood the Royal palaces in olden times.
This island was called by the name Kasthila; (
Modern Kathul ). This inference is strengthened by
a passage in Raja Tarangini which shows that king
Ananta (A. D. 1028-63) transferred his Royal
residence to the vicinity of the temple of Sada
Siva to left bank of the river. Since imposing and
massive structures of wood were used for making a
palace, so this locality came to he known as
Kasthila (derived from kashth wood). "The
evidence of buildings made of wood in Srinagar is
corroborated by the huge conflgarations which
overtook Srinagar frequently and at times the
intensity of the fire was so great that it crossed
to the other side of river also, and set it to
flames". Easily combustible materials as wood
and birch bark used for roofing could only workout
such havoc. There is a Siva temple in this
locality also presently known as Kathalisvara;
Sada Siva temple as alluded to above may be this
Dr. Stein has tried to identify this with modern
" Purushyar " just below Kutkol. However
the shrine of Siva built there on the Ghat is of
recent origin and built by public munificence,
whereas the temple at Kathul does bear patent
marks of antiquity. Moreover, Kalhana writes that
this shrine of Sada Siva was in front of Soma
Tirtha on the right bank of Vitasta. This Soma
Tirtha is definitely the present Kashmiri "
Somyar " shrine just close to the second
bridge. Both the shrines on the left bank viz
Kathlesvara and Purusyar can claim this privilege
though not exactly in front but a bit removed from
right downstream and upstream respectively. The
elevation of Kathul or the Zaindar Mohalla as it
is called now, is also comparatively higher than
the rest of the city; perhaps it shows that this
island between Ksiptika (Kutkol) and Vitasta was
intentionally raised to protect the Royal palaces
from the ravaging waters of these rivers when in
fury, as also furnishing it with a vantage
position when attacked.
After this, the Vitasta
flows at a much slower pace upto the weir where a
lock has been built to control the level of water
in the city. Many more Tirthas been located on its
banks, but no reference can be found for these,
nor any ruins sighted. However, between the 6th
and 7th bridge just near the weir to the right
Queen Didda (A.D. 980-1003) built the " Didda
Matha" called presently "Dedmar"
now-a-days. Srivara also refers to this part of
the city frequently in his chronicle. "Just
in front of the "Didda Math" on the left
bank Ksiptika joins Vitasta again having parted
with it earlier near the "Gadadhar temple
". However, before we follow the course of
Vitasta beyond the weir, it will be pertinent to
remove the misnomer that "baths" and
hot-water baths were unknown in Kashmir before the
Muslim rule. Kalhana has preserved for us copious
references regarding "Snariagrhas",
"Majjaanavasa" "Snanakosthas"
etc in his chronicle. These may be translated as
"river baths" and "bathing
cells". Presumably the first two were used by
male Population and the "Kosthas"
individual cells were reserved for ladies. These
were built of wood and could be shifted from one
Ghat to another. At the time of the "great
fire" even these were devoured by the raging
flames. The corruption from "Snankoshta"
as "Stankuth" is even used to-day in the
same context. Ksemendra mentions such baths in his
Samaya Matrika much before Kalhana.
Just below the weir one
glaring difference becomes patently visible. The
right bank of Vitasta changes into marshes being
very low and the left bank is considerably higher;
within the city both these banks command the same
height for understandable reasons as the city is
situated on both of these. Some furlongs below
from the left bank "Dudganga" joins the
Vistata. At this confluence as at every Sangama a
Tirtha is essentially located. Bilhana cleary
alludes to it." The most renowned Sangama is
however located some distance below towards the
right when the Sindhu the greatest tributary of
the Vitasta meets it at Prayaga.
The "Sinhdu"
comes down from Gangabal lake and enters the Plain
at Dugdhasrama - Kashmiri "Dodarhom."
The name Uttara Manasa is the name given to this
lake by the ancient chroniclers, Kalhana
(RajaI-57), HaracaritaCintanmai (Iv-87) and
Nilamata (610,970); Haramukuta Ganga Mahatyma also
testifies to it. The valley of Sindhu is the
modern district of Lar the old "Lahara".
At Dodurhom all the various branches of this river
meet and also form a veritable river which wending
its way towards the west, it reaches the Vitasta
quite opposite to the village Shadipur. The "Sindhu"
can also mean an ordinary river in Skt, yet "
Sindhu" in Kashmir has been equated with
"Ganga" in its sanctity and importance.
Nilamata, Harcarita Cintamani and Mahatmyas have
repeatedly referred to it. Nilamata identifies the
Vitasta with the Yamuna and the Sindhu with Ganga
the two most famous and holiest rivers of India.
Hence their confluence has also been called
Prayaga (Nila-vv 297). It is held in great esteem
and respect by the devouts since very ancient
times. However, on the evidence of Kalhana we have
to believe that the present position of Sangama is
not so very ancient. This confluence was
artificially engineered by "Suyya" while
busy in dredging operations for desilting the
Vitasta. This was done under the orders of king
Avanti Varman (A.D. 855-883). He further says that
at the former confluence the two temples of
VishnuSvamin and VainyaSvamin were situated close
to Phalapora and Parihasapura, Kashmiri (Paraspura),
and the confluence which Suyya contrived near
Sundaribhavana the temple of HrsihesaYogasvamin
was erected as it was the deity of worship
ishtdeva of Suyya.
On the authority of
Kalhana himself we know that Parihasapur and
Phalapura were the two cities founded by
Lalitiditya Muktapida (A.D. 750); we have to
assume for relying upon this evidence that the
Vitasta at that time flowed near these two cities
just below the Uddars on which these are situated
and the Sindhu met it there, "The plateau
situated with heaps of ruins of which few have
been excavated. Barring Buddhist monuments there
are purely Hindu structures also visible
there." Pt. R.C. Kak has to say further,
" crossing the ravine in which nestles the
little village of Diwar Yakmanpura and ascending
the plateau opposite are seen the immense ruins of
two extraordinary large temples; one of them has a
peristyle larger than that of the Martanda."
This ravine may be the dry bed of the Vitasta now
as it flowed then before its course was changed
and harnessed by Suyya and the two temples alluded
to above may be temples of VisnuSvamin and
Vainaysvamin built on these heights. At present at
this confluence a small Shivalaya is situated and
in mid-stream some distance from the bank, a
pedestal of stones is constructed on which a cinar
trees has grown. Kalhana specifically mentions
that the tree was Vata (fig) and not cinar. It may
be concluded that the fig tree could not catch up
with the climate of Kashmir and in course of time
it withered and in its place the local tree of
benign majesty cinar was transplanted in its place
as figs are not grown at all in Kashmir. There is
also a belief amongst the Hindus here that this
cinar has remained stationary in size since it was
planted. Some miles below the confluence, the
village of Sumbal comes next. This village is now
situated on both banks of the river joined by a
bridge. However, in those times when the Vitasta
was flowing towards the left, the ancient capital
of Kashmir Jayapura is situated. The town was
founded by king Jayapida in the second half of the
eight century.
Somewhat below the
present bridge to the left stands the shrine of
Nandikesvara alluded to as Nandi Kesava. Close to
it a channel from the river goes towards Manas (Saras)
lake, now known as Manasbal. This lake is
mentioned in Nilamata and Raja Tarangini by
Jonaraja A short distance lower the vitasta glides
its way through the Wular. This very big lake is
named as Mahapadmasaras founded by Maha Padama
Naga who is believed to dwell in it as its
presiding deity. Nilamata and other older texts
relate this fact at length. The name Wular given
to this lake nowadays is obviously derived from
"Ullola" occurring in Jonaraja's
Rajatarangini. In Srikanthacaritam Mahapadama has
been equated with "Ullola" by its
commentator Jona Raja. Many myths and legends seem
to have been woven around this lake in which it
has been mentioned that this lake was a very
thickly populated town named Candrapura, and
through the curse of sage Durvasa was submerged
under water.
Many other legends bring
in the name of king Visvagasva and a Dravidian
magician. From the north via the town of Bandipura,
Madhumati stream joins the lake. This stream is
mentioned in Nilamata also for its sanctity.
However, one thing remains patently clear that the
Vitasta while passing through the lake does not
altogether lose its identity. Very cautiously it
follows the rule of keeping to the left of the
lake and a string of water is easily discernible
in that vast expanse as that of the Vitasta.
After wading through the
waters of the lake, the Vitasta regains her own
original stature nearabout Suyyapur modern Sopore.
This town now a very flourishing centre of
fruit-growing is a standing monument to the
engineering acumen, of Suyya who regulated the
course of Vitasta in the time of Avanti Varman .
This town was founded by the Annapati himself on
the reclaimed land after desilting Vitasta. Three
miles below Sopore the Vitasta is joined by "Pohur"
stream from the right at Doabgah. This name does
not appear either in Nilamata or Raja Tarangini
when its two tributaries "Mavar" and
"Hamli" are distinctly mentioned in
Nilamata and Raja Taraiigini as Mahuri and Samala
respectively; However jona Raja has referred to it
as " Pahra".
Some miles downstream the
Vitasta enters the Varahaksetra, and the principal
town of this Ksetra is known as Varahamula,
Baraniulla of to-day. The name is evidently
derived from the ancient, Tirtha of
VishnuAdiVaratia near the site of the present
Kotitirtha very close to the river bank. This
shrine was destroyed by Sikandar Butshikan to
which Jona Raja refers explicitly. The town ably
was located on the right bank of the river in
those times. It has now spread over extensively to
the left also eating into the Karewas adjacent to
it. In those times a bridge also existed over the
Vitasta for come and go from right to left and
vice versa. This town also was important from
strategic point of view; hence a "Drang"
watch-tower was also constructed over there.
Even to-day where the
Vitasta narrows down and flows over large boulders
which is referred to as "Dvara" by
Kalhana the name of the locality is persistently
known as "Drang". However, to the left
of the bank Turuska king "Huska" built
his capital Huskapura, which has survived as
"Ushkor" nowadays. It seems that "Huskpura"
was more important than the "Varahamulla"
in olden times. Kalhana refers to it frequently
and kings other than the Indo-Scythian "Haska"
also embellished it from time to time. Lalitaditya
built a great temple of Vishnu and a Buddhist
Vihara there. Ksemagupta spent his last days at
the two maths he had founded at Huskapura.
Kaniska the famous Kushan
ruler also founded a city "Kaniskapura"
(Now Kanispura) to the left of Vitasta some
furlongs above "Ushkhr". Understandably
there was much space available for the extension
of the city on the left bank rather than on right
where it is closely girdled by hills; since the
route to "Sarada" also lay through
Varahamulla, this town was more of a stopover
station than the actual city and consequently was
founded on the right bank. Some distance above the
gorge in which the Vitasta goes down and rises up
again as a river by its own right in the west
Pakistan under the name of Jhelum, "Indradvadasi"
festival used to be celebrated in ancient times.
On this day presents and clothes were given away
to the poor. This day is still observed in Kashmir
under the same name "Inderbah" on the
12th of the bright half of Bhadrapada but with a
difference. It used to be a day of festivities and
gaiety, but now this day has been reserved for
manes. Shrada is being performed there on the spot
which is known as "Kanimaja" Kashmiri
Kaniyasi- Mata in Sanskrit. The name as such does
not occur in any ancient text even though
Indradvadasi is mentioned in the Nilamata. The
place has been called as Varahaksetra in general.
The boons accruing from
this river are so many that it can be called a
veritable Mother; but at this place it becomes
smaller in expanse and volume, so it may have been
called a smaller Mother. It might be even derived
from kan verb meaning to lessen or to reduce in
size.
After emerging from the
emerald hued spring of Nila at Verinaga, we have
followed the course of the Vitasta from Khanbal to
Khadanyar. This Khadanyar can be traced from
Khadana Vihar built by one of the queens 'Khadana'
of king Meghavahana. The Vitasta Mahatmya (xix,
60) refers to this locality as Khadanahara. This
journey of eighty miles and odd of this zig-zag
river conceals in its bosom the variegated
cultural and religious values of the valley. These
miles definitely represent the milestones
stretching over thousands of years for recording
its inflow and outflow; virtue and evil, rise and
fall, joys and sorrows of the Kashmiris at large.
So it does not seem any exaggeration when
Vaisampayana says to janmejaya:
<verses>
"O king, whatever
Tirthas exist on this globe are found there (in
Kashmir)."
And to elucidate his
point he adds:
<verses>
"There (in Kashmir)
the springs, ponds and Mountains bestow virtue.
There the rivers and streams are very sacred;
their shrines are immensely sanctified and
likewise the hermitages also. In the midst of
which the great spring goddess Vitasta born
actually of the Himalayas has sprung up dividing
it (Kashmir) like the parting-line of a lady's
hair."
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