Part III - More Travels
Stopping rain,
levitation,
milking a wooden cow---
all this is deceitful exhibition.
--- Lalla
Section 43
Kulgam, the seat of the
Tehsil, is on the Jammu-Srinagar highway, six miles
south of the district seat at Anantnag. In my new
position at Kulgam I oversaw staff at various centres.
There were three units: Bijbehara, Shopian and Dambal
Hanjipora, a place across Vaisho river. Bijbehara,
Vijabror in Kashmiri, on the highway and the Vitasta
river, has a magnificent park of ancient chinar trees.
It was the ancient tirtha to Vijayeshvara, from which
it derives its name. The Nehru family traces its
ancestry to this town. In the olden times it was an
important stage town in the pilgrimages to Amarnath
and to the sun temple at Martand.
The block development officer
at Kulgam shared supervisory powers on the activities
of the staff. The district commissioner had authority
over developmental activities also. There was a lot of
talk of making plans and checking the progress
inspired, no doubt, by theories copied from the
Russian and Chinese communists. We met monthly to see
how things were going.
I purchased a bicycle and was
generally on tour inspecting the work of the field
staff. But we were mainly padding numbers to look good
on paper with the result that the quality of the work
went down.
A big cattle show, at the
state level, was held at Tral. I rode there on my
bike, a distance of thirty six miles. On the sixth
day, I rode to Srinagar twenty three mile on. From
there, I rode another twenty six miles to Shopian to
conduct an inspection. From Shopian to Kulgam is
almost entirely downhill and hardly any pedalling was
needed to reach back home.
This was the time that a lot
of construction was going on in the veterinary
department of the valley. Of the four centres under my
supervision, the best buildings came up at Kulgam; the
contractor was an old, honest Pandit.
Avinash was now in the middle
school, located on the plateau above the town. Subhash
was in the fourth grade in the primary school half a
mile away. Earlier at Udhampur, Subhash got a double
promotion by appearing in the second and third grades
together. I discovered that the school had no math
teacher for the fourth grade and Subhash held these
classes for the entire session. When the results of
the annual examination came out Subhash was shown as
having passed, without any distinction. One day I saw
the Headmaster and I questioned him about the result.
He replied that if I wished he would privately
acknowledge that Subhash had stood first. He explained
further that he was advised by his superiors that no
Pandit boy be shown as having stood first because that
entitled the boy to a scholarship. I suppose this was
a result of the thinking amongst the leftist
intellectuals, who decided policy throughout India but
especially Kashmir, that the children of the poor
should be helped; in actual practice, this good
thought was perverted in countless ways.
The person supposed to
inspect meat and milk was the medical officer. As a
result he received free milk and meat and the rest of
the townspeople put up with adulterated milk. The
tehsildar, being the chairman of the town development
committee, was also in league with the medical
officer.
The residents of Kulgam were
very unhappy with this and their anger boiled over
when the milkmen raised their prices. There were
complaints and a meeting was called to fix the prices
of milk in the classic Soviet style. I argued that
this should not be done because the price reflected
the increase in the costs of the feed for the cows. I
argued that the market should decide the prices but we
should be strict with the quality of the milk.
Fortunately, my view prevailed and I became a sort of
a hero to the milkmen although I had hounded them with
my checks on quality with a lactometer.
Section 44
Because of an uproar against
the veterinarian in Baramulla, I was posted back there
in the middle of 1956. The previous doctor had
conducted vaccination against the Ranikhet disease
which, instead of protecting the animals, made them
sick. Whole flocks perished. Perhaps the vaccine was
not properly manufactured and attenuated; now the poor
doctor had to pay the price.
The state minister for our
department was Harbans Singh Azad and the doctor was
related to him. They both belonged to a landowning
Sikh business class and the doctor also ran the
business of a bus line between Srinagar and Uri. Until
he retired, the doctor's postings were at different
places on this line. Anyway, after the mishap with the
vaccine the villagers were so enraged with him that
they wished to lynch him. Thanks to the minister's
connection he was whisked away under police
protection. This posting for me was supposed to be a
stop-gap arrangement as after the winter I was asked
to go to Leh. More about that later.
In Baramulla, I moved into an
old house attached to the old dispensary. Since my
last posting here, a new hospital was built next to
the police station. The building was nice looking and
modern. The town was still amongst the cleanest in the
valley and, during summer, breezes from the gorge
cooled it. I had just reached the town with the family
that I found a telegram waiting asking me to tour the
region of the ceasefire line in Uri to control an
epidemic. After the vaccinations in Uri, I sought
permission from the Area Commander to enter the
prohibited area; this was denied, and so I returned. I
alighted from the bus at the old dispensary building
where I had left Sarojini and the children. I entered
the building and found it abandoned. I was worried and
rushed to the new building a mile or so further down
and found Sarojini and the children there.
In my absence, Sarojini
concluded that the Old Dispensary building, which was
isolated and far from the town, was not safe. She took
over one room and the adjoining kitchen in the new
building and crammed everything into it. This room was
meant for the owners of animals brought in for major
operations. There was a hall attached to these rooms
which had a sandy pit in the middle where the casts on
the animals were placed. Two adults and five children
in a room and a kitchen was very crowded indeed.
My staff did not like my stay
on the premises as it checked their pilferage of the
rations meant for the bulls and the chickens. They
mailed several anonymous complaints to the deputy
director.
We did not have a water tap
connection in our kitchen, so the water was brought in
buckets from the police buildings. I hired a servant
to do so but my staff scared him away. Then I issued
orders to the lower staff, the attendants, to take the
bulls for exercise six miles by a village road and
that I would follow them on a bicycle. Within four
days the staff came round and became cooperative, and
I let the bulls to be exercised in the compound
itself.
Three months later, the
director and the deputy director stopped over at
Baramulla on return from a tour of Uri. Sarojini
cooked many snacks for them. I explained why I was
compelled to take up lodgings in the premises. The
director decided then to make the building the
official residence after the big operation hall had
been converted into two liveable rooms. Our stay in
Baramulla from that point on became quite pleasant.
Meanwhile, the Jammu and
Kashmir Constituent Assembly drafted a Constitution
that was to go into effect from the 28th January 1957.
Pakistan protested vociferously and rumours circulated
that tribals from the Pakistani occupied Kashmir will,
in a repeat of 1947, attack to prevent the
implementation of the Constitution. These rumours were
stoked by very bellicose statements on the Pakistani
radio. Businessmen on the route from Uri to Srinagar
began to clear their inventories and many folks sent
their families to Srinagar or the interior.
The district industries
inspector lived across the road with his brother, who
worked in the post office. They were considering
sending their valuables to Srinagar. Sarojini was also
scared and she wished to send her jewelry to Srinagar.
I calmed her by arguing that if all of us were killed
the valuables would mean nothing.
The evening of the twenty
eighth, the power house at Mohora, near Uri, failed
and the town was plunged into darkness. The fear
deepened until a convoy of military trucks carrying
the Dogra Regiment passed through the bazaar with
their war cry of ``Jai Durga Ki". This resounding
cry dispelled the gloom and it appears the Pakistani
agents in the villages slunk back to their bases. We
were glued to the radios until the electricity failed.
But a friend owned a battery set and we were reassured
by the nine o'clock news bulletin that said that
everything was normal and there were no border
crossings.
Avinash was to appear in his
eighth grade examination. I stayed awake with him
during his preparation at nights, and he secured good
marks. Didda had been laid up in bed with heart
trouble. I saw her in Srinagar as often as I could.
Tika Lal Vali, her son-in-law, and her daughter Kamala
were taking good care of her.
My laboratory officer asked
me to select a village where there was no previous
vaccination against the rinderpest disease. The Izzat
Nagar veterinary institute had developed a new
attenuated vaccine that they wished to check out; this
was to replace an older vaccine that had caused the
epidemic. I chose a village near Uri and the animal
owners agreed to the tests. A few of us met the
village numberdar and arrangements were made for
volunteers to hold the animals. The next day I
attended my office until three in the afternoon and
then cycled to the village. As the droves of animals
were returning from their grazing we made them pass
through an open space where I did some very fast
vaccinations. The research officer was so impressed
that he wished me to join the rinderpest disease
control office. I kept around for three days to check
for adverse reaction and there was not any. I was
again sounded on working in the rinderpest unit but I
said I would do so only if I was made the chief of
that unit. It appears that position was reserved for
some other doctor.
Section 45
LEH.
In April 1957, I
received an order from the development commissioner to
go to Leh immediately. I was to be at the airport at
eight in the morning the next day.
Leh was considered a hardship
posting. The capital of Ladakh, this town is situated
at an altitude of 11,500 feet. Ladakh district is
about half the area of the state; it is very sparsely
populated and a majority of the Ladakhis are
Buddhists. The political history of Ladakh has been
traced back to about 1000. Being situated on the
crossroads of the silk and pashmina routes between
Central Asia, Tibet, Kashmir, and Punjab, Ladakh has
seen its share of drama, romance, and adventure. It is
conceivable that the earlier inhabitants of the Ladakh
valley were Dards and the Tibetan stock became
intrusive later on. The interaction between Ladakh and
Kashmir has been seen to go as far back as accounts
are available. Buddhism was spread into Tibet by the
Indian sage Padmasambhava. A second influence went
there through Kashmir in what has been called the
second spreading of Buddhism into Ladakh and Tibet
about a thousand years ago. Evidence about this
spreading is preserved in the wall paintings that have
been discovered in the gompa (monastery) of Alchi,
about forty two miles downstream the Indus from Leh.
These seven or eight hundred year old wall paintings
are in a style that is unique and might be the sole
representative of the Kashmiri style of its times.
Ladakh's last independent
king was defeated by Zorawar Singh, the famous Dogra
general, in 1834. Ladakh was the only direction that
Ranjit Singh's Sikh empire could expand by virtue of a
treaty he had signed with the British is 1809. Under
this treaty, the Sikhs were free to do as they wished
north of the Satluj river.
In spite of its bleak
mountainous terrain, Ladakh was an attractive
conquest, because it lay on important trade route
connecting Tibet, through which pashmina wool was
imported into Kashmir.
Zorawar Singh took the route
of Kishtwar and Zanskar to invade Ladakh. He spent the
winter midway to Leh. The Ladakhis attacked in the
spring, but were routed. Next, Zorawar Singh annexed
Baltistan.
The Ladakh kingdom had an old
claim on west Tibet. Zorawar Singh was now ordered by
his king Gulab Singh to seize this region. He set out
in 1841 and was soon in control of Mansarovar and
Kailas. But that winter his force was challenged by a
much larger army of the Tibetans and the Dogras were
defeated. Thus ended the dream of a greater Jammu and
Kashmir.
Leh was not yet connected by
road to Kashmir; this road had been under construction
for years and many engineers and ministers had made
fortunes by showing fictitious work. (The road was
later built by the army.)
We received double salary at
Leh, and under rules a person was given twenty four
days as joining time on transfer. The order to leave
for Leh at such short notice was not fair. Perhaps
because of this I overslept and then, instead of going
to the airport, I went to the development
commissioner's residence. I explained to him that I
was unable to reach the airport as I did not find
transportation. He was very angry; I returned home
very dejected.
Sarojini and the children at
Baramulla were overjoyed to see me return. But with
the mishap I was prepared for the worst. I obtained
school leaving certificates for the children and then
came to Srinagar to see if I could get my order
cancelled. Didda was in a very bad state and horoscope
readers said that if she survived till October she
will live another five years. Avinash and Subhash said
they would accompany me to Leh while Sarojini and the
other children would wait out the period of
prediction. The whole family could not have come back
from Leh in the event of Didda's death.
Those days the state
government chartered Dakota planes to transport
supplies to Leh. The planes also carried government
passengers. I started making rounds of the various
offices to secure seats for Avinash, Subhash and me.
I still remember the grand
view of the glacier clad mountains from the plane; to
the left of the flight route was Nanga Parbat. We
arrived in Leh in two hours. The town presents a sight
very different from any in Jammu or Kashmir provinces.
For both men and women the standard dress is that of a
goncha, which is a woollen coat that goes around the
body. In earlier times no underclothing was worn
beneath the goncha, but when we were in Leh the goncha
was worn as an overcoat over normal set of clothing.
At the airport I hired pack
yaks to carry our baggage and we walked. We entered
the town by the main gate that opens on the bazaar and
on the left was the building that housed the
veterinary dispensary, the inspectorate and my office;
the back side of this building had the residential
units. Gopi Nath Safaya, the inspector, was an
excellent host while we were settling in. The next day
I spent in securing ration cards and the setting up of
the kitchen.
The first things I did was to
order gonchas for all of us. The boys were admitted
into the school which was just behind the dispensary.
Since there was not much work at the dispensary I was
asked to supervise the cattle farm at Murtse.
The children and I did the
cooking while the cleaning was done by an attendant. A
Kashmiri captain of the Leh Garrison was very helpful
when it was the turn of the rest of the family to
come. He declared the Sarojini was related to her;
this allowed her and the children and the baggage to
come by the army Dakota free of charge. I went to the
airport with some pack animals for the baggage and a
military jeep for the passengers.
I was invited to a party that
evening and I returned late. Sarojini was very upset
at my going to a party on the first day of her
arrival. I begged her to forgive me.
Now we settled into a
routine. We asked Gopi Nath Safaya to eat with us
until his family joined him.
The rice from the ration shop
ran out and we were now issued wheat flour. Sarojini
was very unhappy that we had to eat chapaties both
times. Shivaratri was nearing. The government now sent
one full bag of rice to be distributed amongst the
Kashmiri Pandits. The distribution was to be done by
the Pandits themselves. I volunteered and paid for the
whole bag in full. I was to distribute the rice at
five kilos a person. I could sell only one fourth of
the bag. Most of the Kashmiri Pandits worked for the
public works department and they did not come to
receive their share, perhaps because they did not need
it.
Sarojini ate her lunch
between twelve and one; Avinash would smell the
cooking from the school and run over to eat with her.
Our rice lasted till the mountain passes opened in the
spring and the regular supply of rations resumed.
The climate of Leh is very
dry and healthful. But once the flu virus was brought
there on an airplane. In our family everyone except
Neeraj were laid up in bed for days.
In the spring Gopi Nath
Safaya's wife and son Deep arrived. We had great
company; the children had another friend.
I took up the project of
improving the quality of the livestock in the Ladakh
area. My first project was to remove from breeding all
the decrepit bulls in the town. I went to the grazing
ground and with the help of the people in attendance
had the weak bulls castrated. After a week, the
president of the local National Conference party
complained to Gopi Nath Safaya that since I had
castrated the animals without permission I was liable
to pay for the injury to any animal, adding that a
bull was dead. I agreed to pay if the post mortem
report proved that castration was responsible for the
death. I assumed this complaint was a phoney one to
make me slacken off and to get some money off me. Sure
enough, they were not able to produce the allegedly
dead animal.
In the villages the dzo, a
hybrid of the male yak and the common cow, is used to
draw the plough. The dzomo, the female dzo, is not
sterile but its offspring does not survive. The common
drink is chang, best described a fermented barley
water.
To keep its population in
check, Ladakhis devised a system of fraternal
polyandry. The eldest brother in a family was accepted
as the heir to the property, and one or more of the
others was packed off to a gompa to train as a lama.
The brothers who chose to remain in the family house
were all considered to be married to the wife of the
eldest brother. All the children from such a marriage
were taken to belong to the eldest brother, who was
addressed as the `big father', the other brothers
being `little fathers.'
In Ladakh, the Buddhists do
not kill animals but they eat dead animal flesh. On
the high plateau of Changthang the shepherds skin the
dead sheep and goats and hang the cleaned meat to dry
in the frigid air. When there is no dead animal around
and they need meat, they bind up the muzzle and the
legs of the animals and leave it in the open to starve
and choke to death, but they do not draw blood. It is
possible that a bull had died and its meat was already
cooked and eaten.
Next I selected a village in
the marsh about eight miles from Leh for liverfluke
control. This disease was rampant in the area but the
villagers were quite reconciled to the dying of their
animals. I selected a few shaggy, decrepit sheep and
asked the owners for their prognosis for these animals
to survive the winter. I told them further that they
must have seen worms in the livers amongst such dead
sheep in the past. They now agreed to my medicating
ten of the worst sheep, which we later marked. In
early spring I returned to the village and found
people happy that their animals were still alive. Now
all the villagers wanted their flocks to be given
preventive medication and this was done routinely as
long as I was in Leh.
Gopi Nath Safaya went on
leave in the autumn of 1958 to arrange for his
transfer back to the valley. He was unsuccessful and
returned in the spring.
Avinash took and passed his
matriculation examination. It was decided to send him
to Babuji in Kapurthala for his junior college. I
could not arrange for him to join college in Srinagar;
Leh had no college. Subhash did his middle school; in
Sanskrit and other subjects he secured hundred percent
marks.
The government approved the
setting up of a Pashmina goat farm at Murtse. Rooms
were built at the farm to house them. The goats did
fine in winter but as the summer advanced the goats,
who were used to grazing in the open at thirteen to
fifteen thousand feet, were affected badly by the
closed air of the rooms and the lack of exercise and
they started dying. The farm manager was unable to
develop a proper administrative system for the
animals. The area was infested by wolves and without
proper security the goats were liable to be killed by
the wolves. Also the attendants could steal the goats
and claim that the wolves had lifted them. Because of
the high mortality the project was declared unviable.
The Ladakhi gompas provide a
window on the religious life of the region.
Unfortunately, in 1600 or so Ali Mir, the Muslim ruler
of Skardo overran Ladakh and destroyed most of its
religious treasures, one place that escaped being
Alchi. Most of the old Ladakhi gompas are thus only
about four centuries old. Ladakhis follow Vajrayana
Buddhism which in some ways is similar to Kashmiri
tantrism. Two gompas very close to Leh include Sankar
where Kushak Bakula, the chief Lama of Ladakh resides,
and his formal seat at Spituk, five miles down the
Indus from Leh. Up the Indus, about nine miles from
Leh, is Shey, the ancient capital of Ladakh, with its
gompa. The most famous one, and the richest, is Hemis
gompa, where an annual two-day festival is held.
The traditional summer
pastimes in Ladakh are archery and polo. The archery
meets are a great party, with interludes of dancing,
where chang is consumed in great quantities. Polo is
indigenous to Baltistan and the greater Himalayan
region; the British learnt it in India and introduced
new rules. In Leh, polo was played according to
traditional rules. The biggest games were played in
the Leh bazaar.
I got my transfer to Anantnag
in early 1959. I missed leaving Leh where I saw much
camaraderie and people showed concern for each other.
Section 46
ANANTNAG.
This town gets its name
from its great spring and temple to be found at its
southern end. At the northern end of the town, on the
way to Bhavan or Mattan, is the temple of Gautamnag.
Mattan is a famous tirtha and up the plateau behind it
are the famous ruins of Martand, the magnificent sun
temple built by Lalitaditya.
The Anantnag dispensary had a
stud bull and chicken. The tradition here was for the
owner of a sick animal to report the symptoms of the
disease and receive medication. The entries in the
outdoor register were generally false just to show a
great number of cases. The poultry demonstration unit
had ten Rhode Island Red hens and one cock. The idea
was to sell the eggs to the farmers at nominal rates
so that when hatched these would improve the genetic
quality of the local chicken. I asked the compounder
to show me the records of the eggs produced and the
sales. All he had was a notebook showing the feed
given to the chicken but no record of the eggs. Upon
further questioning, he revealed that no farmers came
to buy the eggs and so he had written to the deputy
director for permission to sell the eggs in the open
market. Instead of replying, the deputy director
arrived in person and took all the eggs for himself
without giving any receipt.
I now wrote to the deputy
director that the hens had lost all vitality and they
should be sold to the farmers. This proposal was
accepted. The sale of the chicken eliminated the
corruption in the feed arrangement. The contractor had
never sent the full quota of the greens and grain and
so the chicken were ill fed. Everyone from the
contractor down was in the scheme to defraud the
government and starve the animals. The contractor's
supplies for the breeding bull were erratic, but he
had the audacity to submit bills for the missed
deliveries as well. I refused to pay him for what was
not delivered and this irritated him. He sent several
feelers to me about giving me a share as was the
custom. The deputy director was also a part of this
rotten system. I wrote many letters to the deputy
director arguing for the dismissal of the contractor
but I did not receive any reply.
In the breeding programme, it
was customary for the owner to pay one rupee of which
the veterinarian would keep fifty paise, the senior
compounder twenty five paise, and the rest was shared
by the attendants. I issued instructions that I did
not need my share and the staff could divide the money
amongst themselves provided the bull was fed properly
and exercised. The staff liked this and the condition
of the bull improved.
In the month of September
1959, I was walking on the road outside our hospital
that I saw a flock of sheep that had come down from
the highland pastures. There were some very weak
animals in the flock. To catch the attention of the
farmer, I told him that, by looking into the eyes of
the sheep, I could see worms in their livers and death
within four months. This interested him and he wanted
to hear the pathological symptoms at death. When I
recounted these he was very excited and he agreed to
let me treat the animals. I took the sheep into the
compound and dosed them myself. That winter all these
sheep survived. The word of my magical diagnosis
spread. My work in the hospital and in the field
increased tremendously.
The dispensary at Pahalgam
had been under the control of the officer in Anantnag
in the past; now the deputy director assumed direct
control of it. Pahalgam is a famous summer resort and
the deputy director used the dispensary building to
house his friends and relatives.
In the summer of 1960, a big
fire gutted hundreds of houses and shops in the heart
of Anantnag. Sarojini's cousin Manohar Nath Kaul (Manakak),
who was the president of the district National
Conference party, also lost his house. I had vacant
space in the veterinary complex and I offered him one
apartment.
We now received a telegram
from Babuji saying that Avinash had passed his
intermediate examination. Sarojini spoke to Manakak
and he offered to help him get admission into an
engineering college. We thought this would be much
better than the geology course at Jammu, that he
wished to join. After a couple of months, he received
a letter that he had been admitted in the engineering
college in Madras. We were in Srinagar attending the
marriage of a niece of Sarojini. Sarojini took a loan
of two thousand rupees from her sister and we packed
Avinash off. The money was paid back to her by pawning
our gold with the State Bank.
The deputy director was
unhappy with me because he stopped getting his cut
from the contractors supplying the dispensaries under
my supervision. He was unhappy on another account as
well. One of my responsibilities was to check and
approve the tour programmes of the staff in my
sub-units. Since I had toured the whole region
extensively, I could not be fooled about the
distances. The rules allowed a special allowance for
trips that were beyond eight miles. There was no
allowance if the trip was less than this distance. The
staff had, in the past, shown nearby trips less than
eight miles away as ten day tours; on such trips the
staff stayed on at their homes and shared a part of
their allowance with the deputy director's staff. I
sanctioned such tours but disallowed any allowance for
the middle eight days. This caused a lot of
unhappiness amongst many people, not least the deputy
director.
Now the deputy director made
several surprise visits to catch me off guard but he
always found me on duty. One day, he came early in the
morning and he found the compound full of animals. I
was checking the animals and writing prescriptions to
be purchased in the market. He asked why I was working
so early in the morning. I was then advised that I
should not write prescriptions for them to purchase.
But the medicines in our stores were generally
adulterated country drugs and besides our stocks ran
less than a hundred rupees. There was an old order of
the director that the animals should be given drugs
free from the dispensary store, but this order lost
all relevance in view of the corruption in the
department.
A cattle show was held in
Anantnag. It was all fun until the prize distribution.
Many prizes were given to people who were absent and
these the deputy director pocketed. The farmers began
to threaten violence. I escorted the deputy director
to my residence where he rested till late evening by
which time the people dispersed.
We had two breeding units:
one for mules and the other for cattle. The studs were
cared for by a prosperous Kashmiri Pandit farmer. It
was a large joint family, some in government service,
others in business and yet others worked on the land.
The family would also host any officer from our
department who happened to be visiting. The units were
working quite satisfactorily. One day the elder Pandit
expressed his wish to bid for the supply of fodder and
feed for the centre as the sanctioned rates were very
high. He told me that the rate for grass alone was
fifteen rupees to a quintal, when he could buy this
amount for three or four rupees. I asked him to
research the market for seasonal fluctuations and bid
five rupees higher than what he had to pay. The family
now sent Ram Krishen, one of the family, with their
bid in a sealed envelope to Srinagar where instead of
getting it entered into the receipt register, he
handed it over to the deputy director, who was also
paid two hundred rupees as advance for sanctioning the
contract.
When the contract was
awarded, the family did not get it. Instead, it went
to someone whose bid was much higher. While I was on
tour in their area, they asked me about it. When told
that the bid papers had been given personally to the
deputy director, it was clear that nothing could be
done. They wanted their two hundred rupees back but
Ram Krishen was too embarrassed to ask for the return
of the money. So one day, the elder Pandit went to
Srinagar. He spoke to the deputy directpr in
generalities hoping that the money would be returned
to him without his having to ask for it. When this did
not happen, he told him that he was short of funds and
he needed some help. The deputy director immediately
put his hand in his inner coat pocket and took out the
money. When the old Pandit had his money, he told the
deputy director that he had finally met a man who had
all the three attributes of {kalam, halam, nalam},
which translated means pen of authority, accepting
bribes, and dodging responsibility.
I investigated this affair
further and learned that the deputy director had
carried the sealed envelope in his pocket and, on the
day of opening of the tenders, flaunted it before the
contending suppliers to arouse their curiosity. They
requested to be shown the rates in this bid and he
would do so if they paid him in advance. Each supplier
paid him a bribe to see the contents of the envelope.
The old Pandit's bid was the lowest and his
competitors were about three times higher. The deputy
director persuaded the contender to reduce his bid to
two times higher than the Pandit's. So he played a
double game: one for showing the bid and second in the
regular commission the contractor paid on approval of
his bid.
The demands to supply the
concentrates in full was irking the supplier and he
was tardy, missing deliveries, and so I black-listed
him. Imagine my surprise, therefore, when come new
year, I saw the same contractor supplying us fodder. I
banned his entry into the hospital premises. The
attendants came to intercede on his behalf. But I
would not budge. The deputy director also came to
intercede. When I did not listen he wished to check
the ration register as one of the complaints against
me was that we did not buy any hay during winter.
The purchase of dry hay was
done by weight. When the supply came, the loops of hay
were counted and the weight estimated by weighing one
loop. In this method the store keeper took the
thinnest loop to estimate the total weight. Since
feeding was done by actual weight a surplus was
created if the animals were fed concentrates properly.
At the end of March, the store keeper told me that he
had a surplus of hay. I asked him to show twenty
quintals as surplus and entered this amount in the
books. Without my knowledge, the store keeper showed
the surplus beyond this as having been purchased from
the villages. He prepared all the receipts of the
carriers and the octroi paid to make a foolproof case
of having purchased the hay.
One attendant in the hospital
was sympathetic to the contractor and he whispered
into the deputy director's ears that nothing had been
purchased that winter. But the staff had prepared
receipts in such a fashion so as to show delivery on
dates when this attendant was absent. The contractor's
complaint was that since no grass had been purchased
and there was a surplus at the end of the winter he
should be paid for it. When the deputy director and
the contractor saw the re-entry of twenty quintals in
the books they realized the battle was lost. The
deputy director had no choice but to approve the bills
that were submitted by my office.
Since the deputy director
failed to dislodge me from my job, he now advised one
of his agents to lodge another complaint against me. I
was accused of charging exorbitant fees for private
visits after office hours. The complainant in the
letter was allegedly from Sagam, a place ten miles
away. I insisted that the deputy director accompany me
to Sagam so that we could confront the complainant to
find the truth. He did not agree to this and the case
was closed.
Section 47
Meanwhile, political events
were moving fast. There were border clashes between
China and India in Ladakh when we were in Leh. Several
Indian soldiers were killed when they tried to reclaim
the border posts that were illegally occupied by the
Chinese. In India Nehru was praised in the fifties as
the leader of the non-aligned nations of the world. He
had tried to articulate positions independent of the
two power blocks in the Cold War years. But the
Western nations saw him as an ally of the Russians
whereas to the Communists he was a foolish idealist
who could be pushed around. In the 1950s, while Nehru
was toasting China as an ally with shared ancient
history, the Chinese were secretly building a road
through Aksai Chin, an unpopulated high plateau in
Ladakh. Nehru's geo-political thinking was based on
woolly analysis and he had no real support amongst the
international powers.
By the time it was commonly
known that China seized large chunks of land in Ladakh
and elsewhere, other issues had also become important.
Before this, when China seized Tibet, we did not
protest in spite of the historical ties between the
Tibetans and us and our strategic interest in securing
the north. But India gave refuge to the Dalai Lama and
other Tibetans when China brutally put down their
attempts to win self-rule. The Chinese, as an
aggressive imperialist power, armed with the
self-righteous rhetoric of Marxism, considered this a
great affront. The relations between India and China
became frigid and there were several border
skirmishes. A regular war began with large scale
invasion by the Chinese in September 1962. India was
unprepared for this war and, abandoning its high horse
of non-alignment, it turned to the U.S. for military
assistance.
The Chinese declared
cease-fire in late November and they withdrew from the
parts of northeast India that they had overrun.
However they maintained their possession of a large
chunk of Aksai Chin.
Assistance from the U.S. came
with a price. There was considerable pressure for
India to reach a settlement with Pakistan on Kashmir.
Nehru's prestige took a great dive.
During the autumn of 1963,
Nehru fashioned a plan to get rid of long serving
corrupt Chief Ministers and rival politicians. It was
announced that the pland was an idea of the Tamil
politician Kamaraj, but it was clearly a copy of
tactics often employed in the Soviet Union. Under the
Kamaraj plan all ministers were to submit their
resignations to Nehru. Morarji Desai, the person most
thought would succeed Nehru, lost his position in the
cabinet. Desai was a conservative in the Congress
party and Nehru wanted someone else, perhaps his own
daughter Indira, to succeed him.
Bakshi Ghulam Mohammad lost
his job but the replacement was his own man,
Shamasuddin. Sarojini's cousin Manakak became the
revenue minister.
To build a political base for
himself, Shamasuddin tried a few populist things such
as dismissing some of the most notoriously corrupt
officials in the state. Bakshi's hold on the
administration was beginning to wane and it is
believed that he and his henchmen created the next
crisis. A hair, believed to be of prophet Muhammad,
kept in a glass tube in the Hazratbal mosque was
stolen.
The Hazratbal shrine is one
of the most important in Kashmir. The scholar Aurel
Stein informs us that before the Islamic rule it was a
popular Hindu-Buddhist pilgrimage centre.
Demonstrations and strikes by the Muslims in the
valley followed. Intense feelings against the state
government and the centre built up. People would
parade in towns and villages carrying bundles of grass
to keep them warm during the nightly vigils. Kashmiri
Hindus were not directly threatened but there was
always the possibility that riots against them would
be engineered as had occurred in East Pakistan where
Hindu homes and shops had been attacked and many
people killed. We lived in a government building close
to a major mosque and menacing crowds would mill
around that area the entire day.
The hair remained missing for
several weeks. Pakistan was using this incident for
its anti-Indian propaganda. Nehru now sent Lal Bahadur
Shastri to Srinagar to find a way to recover the hair.
It was clear that the situation had gone out of
control and the thieves wished for the episode to be
over. Shastri let it be known that the thief could
return the glass tube with the hair by packing it in a
bag of rice. As many such bags were donated to the
shrine daily, this would protect the identity of the
thief. Soon enough the tube with the hair was
recovered from one such bag. The crisis was over. But
the bungling during the whole episode meant that
Shamasuddin---and Manakak---were out of job; the
leftist Ghulam Muhammad Sadiq became the next prime
minister.
Nehru now released Sheikh
Abdullah from his long imprisonment. Abdullah
travelled to Pakistan to hold discussions with
President Ayub. We did not know what political deals
were in the works. Some newspapers were suggesting
that the valley might be given some autonomy; others
spoke of a federation between India and Pakistan so
that the Kashmir question would become moot. But
before anything could happen Nehru died in May 1964.
Shastri succeeded him as
prime minister. He was perceived as a weak leader so
Pakistan tried to wrest Kashmir by force. Large number
of irregular troops were sent into the valley to start
an insurrection. Most of them were promptly captured.
This led to the Indo-Pakistan war of 1965 which ended
in stalemate on ground. India and Pakistan, under
intense international pressure, signed an agreement in
Tashkent to return to the pre-War positions. It was
seen as a sell-out in both countries and Shastri
suffered a heart attack and died before he could
return to India. Indira Gandhi became the next prime
minister.
Section 48
During the last year of
Bakshi's government, the government of India gave
funds to open a Merino sheep breeding farm. It was
planned that rams would be imported and mated with the
local stock. The farm was to purchase ewes in the open
market. The minister of animal husbandry did not wish
to share the commission expected in this large
purchase with the well entrenched director of the
department. So he created a new Sheep department. I
was transferred to this new department and my new
office was in Bijbehara five miles away in Anantnag. I
cycled to my office.
We were called by the new
director to his office in Srinagar. He spoke to me
separately and said that he wished for me to hire
three shepherds in my unit and he raised two fingers.
I asked him the meaning of the sign with the two
fingers. He replied that I should charge two hundred
rupees from each appointee and give the money to him.
I said that I could not do this and would send the
shepherds to him to make the payment. Other officers
were likewise told to raise money for him and I
believe that most obliged. When Shamasuddin dismissed
one hundred officers, this chap was amongst them.
Section 49
Meanwhile, Subhash also left
home and joined the engineering college at Srinagar. I
returned to my parent department in 1965; this was
followed by my appointment as the manager of the
cattle farm at Cheshmashahi, the magnificent Mughal
garden, above the Dal Lake, in Srinagar. In 1967, I
was transferred to Jammu, first as manager of the
cattle farm and then I did various stints as director
of the department's various divisions.
Avinash finished his
engineering in 1966 and that summer, while awaiting
results, he taught as a visiting lecturer at the
engineering college. As soon as his results came out,
he was awarded a fellowship at the Indian Institute of
Technology in Delhi to do his doctorate. Subhash
followed him one year later.
With a few exceptions, my
colleagues and superiors were corrupt and venal. The
years when Bakshi Ghulam Muhammad headed the
government corruption was pervasive. And the later
administration of the self-professed leftist Ghulam
Muhammad Sadiq brought no relief. The attitudes of the
highest officials of the state were reflected in the
behaviour down the line. Professors earned favours by
ensuring that the children of the politicians got high
marks; this was done by substituting for the answer
papers of the politician's son or daughter the paper
of one of the best students in the college. To get
hired in the state departments the hiree usually paid
a bribe to the officer. In engineering departments all
the engineers got a share of the total purchase
budget.
When I became the provincial
director of my department, I was sent messages to
collect bribes for the director, Ghulam Mohiyuddin.
This particular director was building a mansion in
Srinagar and he expected the costs to be partly borne
by his staff. Once his assistant asked me directly to
contribute to the purchase of glazed windows for the
house. Amongst the bizzare things he did was to steal
tens of thousands of eggs of specially imported hens
which were meant to improve the breeds in the valley.
He had these eggs added to the concrete for better
finish of the floors in his mansion. This director as
well as other officers were periodically suspended by
the government and then reinstated when they returned
to their rapacious ways with a vengeance. The
suspensions provided leverage to the ministers to
exact their own bribes from the officers.
When I was the manager at the
Cheshmashahi farm, the minister called me to his
residence. He said that the National Conference was
holding a convention and I would have to pay 20,000
rupees. When I expressed my inability, he advised that
I should get that money out of the store purchases. I
remained un-cooperative and he now asked me to send to
him the stores supplier.
I told the contractor what
had transpired. I also warned him that, while
bargaining with the minister, he should not consider
any reduction in the quality and the quantity of the
supplies. The contractor took some time in meeting
with the minister and after much haggling they settled
on a bribe of five hundred rupees.
Certainly, things were no
better elsewhere in India. Indira Gandhi and her
minions were neck deep in their own scandals. This was
the time that there was much talk of setting up
poultry farms and the like. Powerful politicians like
Durga Prasad Dhar also set up such farms. We saw how
corrupt and immoral these leaders were in their
business dealings. Nevertheless they acted superior to
the earlier figures like Bakshi Ghulam Muhammad whom
they derided for backwardness. D.P. Dhar and other
leftist politicians must have rationalized their ways
as being a necessary evil in the larger fight for
world revolution.
The politicians demanded
money to fill up their coffers to fight elections.
Because of my reputation I was generally left alone. I
could not be wished away owing to my seniority in the
department, but the ministers were always looking for
excuses to transfer me.
Didda passed away in 1961.
She had been a loving mother to me. Bayaji, on his
retirement, moved in with us for some time. Later he
went to Ghaziabad to live with the family of his
daughter, Kamala. During the war with Pakistan in
1971, he was in the hospital for prostate surgery. He
died of post-operation complications. He was a real
saint.
Babuji, on his retirement
from the Kapurthala college, served successively as
principal of new colleges in Haryana. Hem's husband
died in a scooter accident and Babuji and Bibiji
started living with her soon afterward.
The Indo-Pakistan war of 1971
had been fought over what became Bangladesh. In Jammu,
we were just a few miles from the border where some
fierce battles took place. Pakistan was soundly
defeated, its armies surrendered in the east. Near
Jammu also the Indian armies made strategic gains.
The gains on the battlefield
were lost by the diplomats in just a few months. India
was prepared to accept the de facto partition of
Kashmir that had taken place in 1949, if Pakistan
would drop any claim to the rest of the state, and
accept the line of control as the international
boundary. Indira's envoy D.P. Dhar, who travelled to
Pakistan to prepare ground for talks between the two
countries, believed that he had Pakistan's agreement
to it. But when Indira Gandhi and the Pakistani Prime
Minister, Zulfiqar Ali Bhutto, met in Shimla in July
1972, Bhutto balked. Indira Gandhi's advisors were not
experienced diplomats; they had risen by virtue of
their sycophancy. Having raised the expectations of
the public, they felt compelled to strike an agreement
to return the seventy thousand odd Pakistani prisoners
of war for a mere acknowledgement by Pakistan that the
two countries would decide the issue bilaterally at a
future date.
Pakistan was a decisive
victor at the bargaining table. For India, it was
worse than Neville Chamberlain's sellout in Munich.
But Indira Gandhi's indirect control over the media
was so strong that the significance of the Shimla
agreement was not generally recognized.
In 1975, Indira Gandhi
reached an agreement with Sheikh Abdullah and he
returned to power. Abdullah was no doubt impressed by
the apparent demise of the two-nation theory after the
secession of Bangladesh from Pakistan. Overnight, the
Pakistan radio, to which he had been a hero for more
than twenty years, declared him an Indian stooge.
I retired from the service in
1976. Then I joined the State Bank as a consultant to
advise on agricultural loans. All our children had
left home by now. Avinash was a professor in America;
Subhash was a professor at the Indian Institute of
Technology in Delhi; Shakti, Jaishree, and Neeraj were
studying at Nehru University in Delhi. In 1978,
Jaishree left for New York for her higher studies in
German literature and the following year we celebrated
the weddings of two of our children. Subhash married
Navnidhi (Naumi), a Garhwali girl from Dehra Dun, and
Shakti married Valsan, a Keralite from Bombay. Later
that year Subhash accepted a professorship in America.
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