Annual Amarnath Yatra
Heads We Win, Tails You Lose
By Yoginder Kandhari
Amarnathji
Yatra has routinely been mired in
controversies ever since outbreak of militancy
in Kashmir valley. Communal forces in the
Valley, separatists and political parties alike,
have been in the forefront to conjure up
pretexts to oppose smooth conduct of this
Yatra. Kashmiri Muslims fully understand the
economic benefits of this annual event yet,
bread on rabid communal fodder; they oppose this
age old Hindu religious activity in Muslim
majority Valley for reasons religious. Last
year’s uproar in the Valley, over transfer of
land to Amarnathji Shrine Board, crossed all
limits of reasonableness to manifest extreme
religious intolerance. State administration had
almost capitulated to the communal demands from
the Valley had Jammu not risen in a rare
spontaneity against Kashmiri Muslim hegemony
to compel State administration see reason and
restore a semblance of secular order. It is not
that Kashmiri Muslims want Yatra to be
discontinued; they love it for commercial gains
but hate to allow it as it impinges on their
communal mindset.
Much that Kashmiri Muslims may want us to
believe that the Holy Cave of Amarnathji was
discovered by a Muslim in eighteenth century;
the truth is that Amarnathji Tirtha finds
mention in Neelmatpurana and
Rajtarangni predating their claim. Due to
poor communications, cold climate and lack of
facilities, earlier the Yatra was limited
in duration and participation. Besides local
Kashmiri Pandits, the Yatra was
undertaken mostly by Sadhus with a
sprinkling of Guajarati and Bengali pilgrims.
Yatra would commence from Akhara
Building in Srinagar and move to Durga Nag, at
the foot of Shankracharya hill, for performing
puja of the holy mace before proceeding
to the Holy Cave via Pampur- Awantipur –Bijbihara
–Mattan -Pahalgam-Chandanwari- Sheshnag-
Panjtarni. It would culminate, as to this date,
with the darshan of ice Lingam on
Shrawan Purnima. Facilities en-route
and at the staging camps were generally provided
by voluntary organizations with minimal
governmental assistance. However, with
improvement in communications and affordability,
the number of pilgrims grew year after year.
Today, Amarnathji Yatra has assumed the
significance of a major Hindu pilgrimage and
pilgrims include NRIs in hordes. Increasing
numbers necessitated establishment of a
statutory body to conduct the Yatra.
Accordingly, much to the chagrin of separatists
and other Valley based communal parties; Shri
Amarnathji Shrine Board (SASB) was established
in 2000 by an Act of Jammu and Kashmir
Legislature on lines of Mata Vaishno Devi Shrine
Board, Katra (J&K). With establishment of SASB,
there has been a marked improvement in
facilities available to the pilgrims and, more
importantly, these are now affordable. Thus, the
popularity of the Yatra grew manifold and
lakhs started queuing up for darshan
compelling SASB to extend the Yatra
duration to two months from 2005 onwards. There
was a lot of breast beating against this
extension by the then Chief Minister, Mufti Mohd
Sayeed but indomitable Lt. Gen. (Retd.) S. K.
Sinha, the then J&K Governor and Chairman of
SASB, stood his ground forcing the Chief
Minister to relent.
However, upgrading of the facilities has not
kept pace with the grandiose plans for
facilities drawn by the SASB and a lot more
needs to be done. Upgradation plans are
suffering neither for want of willingness on
part of the SASB to execute its responsibilities
nor for adequacy of funds. Attitude of communal
Kashmiri political establishment and bureaucracy
is the major stumbling block. Otherwise, how can
one explain that the road alignment from Ranga
Mor, on Srinagar-Leh Highway, to Domel, on route
to the Holy Cave on Baltal axis, has not been
blacktopped even though central government has
released Rs.20 Cr, about four years back, for
the purpose. The sate government would not let
it happen. Kashmiri politicians have raised
environmental concerns over this issue while the
same politicians conveniently ignore the fact
that beautiful Gulmarg meadows have been ravaged
by a crisscross of blacktop roads. Today,
Gulmarg has more concrete cover than the green
one. But, there are no compunctions over it for
it does not facilitate a Hindu religious
activity.
Amarnathji Yatra and Kashmiri Muslims
Kashmiri Muslim business community, local
administration, separatists and political
parties, though with stakes in the annual
Yatra, nurture an ulterior agenda of erasing
all Hindu religious and cultural linkages from
Kashmir. Each Yatri is valued at
Rs.30,000/= by local business and the convention
has it that he has to be divested of that amount
prior to his departure from the Valley. Last
year an estimated 4 lakh Yatris visited the Holy
Shrine and the amount of money that was pumped
into the Valley’s economy is a matter of simple
calculation. This amount was distributed
throughout the length and breadth of the Valley
from a pithoo, lugging baggage en-route
the Holy Cave, to the Shikarawala in the
Dal to a ponywala in the meadows of
Gulmarg et al. Thus, the business class wants
the Yatra to continue but on its own
terms and conditions. Yet, Yatris are
treated shabbily and even threatened should they
not fall in line.
With establishment of SASB, Yatris
started enjoying better facilities and that too
on affordable rates thus reducing, to some
extent, the loot by the locals. Resentment from
the locals started brewing. One can not help but
quote an instance from 2007 Yatra season
when SASB had ‘dared’ to call for labour
contract tenders for setting up various
facilities along the two routes to the Holy
Cave. The contractor who had quoted lowest rates
was coerced to stay away and the local
contractor, who had the monopoly for labour
contract till then, too boycotted the SASB in a
show of defiance to latter’s authority. The
stalemate ended only when SASB reached an
understanding with this local contractor and
that too on his terms and conditions. By then
the Yatra was already in full swing. With
no pre-fabricated huts erected, one can well
imagine the harrowing experience the Yatris
underwent. Needless to say, all the huts
ultimate did come up but only by the end of the
Yatra season. Mostly, these huts remained
unoccupied since the Yatra had petered
off by then. The local contractor had thus sent
a strong massage to SASB without in any way
impairing his annual revenue.
Further more, that year the housekeeping
contract for the prefabricated huts had been
awarded to a party from Jammu. This contractor
too was boycotted by the locals as no labour was
forthcoming for unloading truck loads of bedding
meant for the huts until an agreement was
reached with the locals at exorbitant rates.
Even the basic amenities, like water and
electricity, were not restored to the camps
resulting in major security and sanitation
problems. With no lavatories erected, it was a
common sight to find Yatris, including
ladies, relieving themselves in the
open. It was a sabotage designed to serve every
Kashmiri stakeholder’s interest. The local
labour proved more than a point to the Shrine
Board. Besides causing a lot of inconvenience to
the Yatris, it reaffirmed its monopoly
over rates and right to the contract and also
provided enough fodder to the separatists and
political parties to rake up sanitation and
environmental concerns. Harassment of the
housekeeping contractor from Jammu helped the
local business as he, inspite of having been
awarded contract up to 2009, opted out.
Local administration openly targets SASB for
poor Yatra management thus building-up a
case for the local Tourism Department to
takeover all the arrangements for the Yatra.
That arrangement would suite all for they then
can share the booty. Less said about the local
police the better. Medical Department too was
not to be left behind. Centre allotted Rs. 1.1
Cr. and 1.5 Cr. to the state government for
providing medical cover for the Yatra in
2007 and 2008 respectively. Not even 25% of the
budget was spent for the right purposes.
Environmental Concerns –A Myth
Mehbooba Mufti often loses her breath while
raking up Amarnathji Yatra controversies.
Her major assault on the Yatra has always
been via environmental concerns. Mainstay of her
argument is poor sanitation in camps and
perceived danger Yatra poses to the
ecology of the area. As for sanitation, she
needs to be educated that the technology being
used for treatment of human waste, in various
staging camps, is the best available in the
world. She would be better advised to take a cue
from the Yatra arrangements and replicate
the same technology in Hazratbal complex for
there is a crying need to block effluents from
contaminating the Dal Lake further. She needs to
worry more about shrinking circumferences of the
Dal and the Wular lakes and unabated concrete
invasions overwhelming Sonamarg, Pahalgam and
Gulmarg rather than exposing her rabid communal
mindset by aimlessly opposing Amarnathji
Yatra without any logic or reason. Shrine
Board is extremely sensitive to the
environmental concerns and has not constructed a
single permanent structure in the area.
Incidentally, only concrete structures to have
come up above the ground level are Jamia
masjids at Baltal and Panjtarni. Erecting
and dismantling temporary structures, year after
year, cost Shrine Board dearly yet the Board
does not bemoan that loss; for it’s commitment
to ecological preservation is unflinching and
unlike rabble-rousing and self-seeking Kashmiri
politicians and bureaucrats. Separatists too
have nothing different to agitate about.
Kashmiri political parties, separatists and
bureaucrats are hand-in-glove in raising
controversy after controversy about the annual
Yatra.
What does SASB need to do now?
Under the prevailing circumstances, SASB has
been doing a fair job so far. However, a lot
more needs to be done to make the Yatra
more affordable and comfortable for all classes
of Yatris. SASB should not lose sight of
the very objectives of its incorporation. First
and foremost, it must not succumb to the
communal forces inimical to conduct of Yatra
itself by permitting its brazen
commercialization by the locals. This could be
done by:
-
Compiling an exhaustive information brochure
containing all the details about Yatra
including the rates fixed for available
facilities and services. Such brochure should
be posted on the SASB website and its printed
copies also be made available to Yatris.
-
Establishing all the facilities for Yatris,
like prefab huts, medical aid posts etc, well
before commencement of the Yatra. So
far ancillary facilities to the camps, like
electricity, water supply, telephone
connectivity etc, are provisioned by local
authorities much after commencement of the
Yatra thus causing a lot of inconvenience
to the Yatris. This anomaly needs to be
sorted out.
-
Irrespective of being owned by Shrine Board or
by the private operators, SASB should take
full commercial control of all services and
facilities by:
-
Fixing rates, well in advance, for all the
services provided by the locals and
advertising those prominently. Mere
fixing of rates, as has been done thus far, is
a halfhearted measure to prevent overcharging
as the actual realization is then left solely
to the integrity of the private operator. That
precisely was the reason why, in 2008,
pilgrims hiring ponies, on the traditional
route, had to dish out amounts upwards of
Rs.11,000/= per pony or Dandiwalas ,
on Baltal route, brazenly fleeced old and
infirm Yatris by settling for nothing
less than Rs.22,000=00 per trip or privates
tent owners charging Rs. 150/= per bucket of
hot water from the shivering Yatris.
Such is the secular texture of the Yatra.
As a counter measure, SASB needs to
establish counters, to be manned by its staff,
for booking of such facilities by the
Yatris.
-
Not outsourcing booking of prefab huts and
helicopter tickets to travel agents since they
have been utilizing availability of quotas
with them as a tool for selling expensive tour
packages to the Yatris. SASB should
handle such bookings itself. Minimum 75% of
the available quota should be set aside for
booking on spot by the pilgrims across
counters to be established by SASB while
balance 25% should be released on Shrine Board
website for booking by the Yatris in
advance..
-
Provision of adequate parking space for the
vehicles at the staging camps. It is a common
knowledge that inadequacy of parking space at
Baltal, besides causing acute traffic
jam right from Sonamarg to the Camp location,
is a source of easy pickings for local cops on
duty. Greater the chaos fuller the pockets of
the very personnel who have been entrusted
with the job of restoring order to traffic. A
simple solution is to shift parking to
Sonamarg and to run a ferry service there
from.
SASB also needs to
upgrade medical facilities at every ‘parao’.
Evacuation of seriously sick patients by
helicopter needs a more deliberate integration
of all agencies than the loose arrangement which
is in place at present. To make medical cover
responsive, the equipment needs to be augmented
with volunteer doctors and other paramedical
staff rather than by those deputed unwillingly
through a duty roster.
Shrine Board
must also consider the option of sponsoring an
alternative route to the Holy Cave via Manali-
Leh- Sonamarg. After all, a number of groups
did take this route to reach Baltal after
the agitators had choked all the roads in
Kashmir during last year’s Yatra season
and these Yatris had nothing to complain
about. Besides obvious economic benefits
accruing to remote Ladakh region which has been
starved of adequate developmental funds till
now, it shall puncture communal arrogance of a
section of Kashmiri Muslims’ claim to monopoly
over the conduct of this Yatra. This
route also offers an ideal site at Gumri for
operation of an affordable helicopter service
since flying time to the Holy Cave would be
drastically reduced to just three minutes.
Handicap of severe cold conditions at some
places, along this route, could well be taken
care of by erecting better facilities for the
pilgrims for then there shall be none to raise
the bogey of environmental degradation. Plans to
construct rail link to Leh along this axis may
ultimately prove to be a boon for the Yatris
and the people of Ladakh region.
Lastly, SASB needs
to revamp its organizational structure. It needs
capable managers at the helm rather than retired
government servants. It needs to shrug itself
off bureaucratic inertia and galvanize into a
dynamic organization capable not only of
efficient management but also be able to
visualize and stimulate long term planning. But,
that is not as great a challenge as the one
posed by concerted affront intended at the Hindu
heritage in Kashmir and on its linkage to
mainland India by communal forces in the Valley.
SASB needs to discern machinations unleashed by
the forces hell bent to paint Kashmir completely
green. Shrine Board must decipher last year’s
Amarnathji land agitation, in Kashmir, as yet
another dimension of the ongoing war to dislodge
India from the Valley. Amarnathji Yatra
is not merely a pilgrimage; it is one of the
many manifestations of the very concept of India.
Kashmiris
Muslims of all hues want the Yatra to go
on till eternity but on their own terms. On one
hand, they regard it as a pure economic activity
while on the other they show scant regard to the
religious sensitivity of the very people who
constitute it. It is Kashmiri Muslim
hegemony at its best, conveying ‘heads we win,
tails you lose’.
Source:
Kashmir
Sentinel
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