by Chander M. Bhat
Amidst of the
beautiful Vastur Van is village Loduv in total silence some 20 km from Srinagar
near famous saffron fields of Pampore. Village Loduv is located within the
jurisdiction of Pampore Police Station in the district of Pulwama and was
comparatively prosperous in relation to other neighbouring villages. It stands
about three km to the southeast of Pampore town. The chief place of the then
Vihi Pargana is now the town of Pampore, the ancient Padampur. Padma, the
powerful uncle of the puppet-king Cippate-Jayapida, founded it in the beginning
of the ninth century. Padma is said by the Chronicle to have also built a temple
of Visnu-Padmasvamin. Close to the temple is the Ziarat of Mir Muhammad Hamadani
with some fine ancient columns and ornamented slabs. Padampura owing to its
central position in a fertile tract seems to have always been a place of
importance and is often mentioned by Kalhana and the later Chroniclers. To the
south of the village one passes first Balhom, a large village, which in the
Likaprakasa and Tirthasamgraha figures as Balasrama? Under a large Deodar
near it Baladevi is worshipped in the form of an ole stone. At the foot of
rocky spur, which descends from the mountain range to the north, lies the
picturesque village of Vuyan, one mentioned by Kalhana under the name of Ovana.
It has a large sulphurous spring visited by the sick. The first factory in Jammu
and Kashmir for the manufacture of cement was installed at Vuyan because of the
availability of raw material for the purpose. Vuyan was burnt during the civil
war between the Kashmiris and the immigrant Syeds in 1484 A.D. The name of the
village changed from Ovana (Uvana) to Vuyan and then to Wuyan.
About two miles
further east one reaches the village Khruv, the ancient Khaduvi that, as we have
seen, gave to the district its former name. There is abundance of fine springs
in and about Khruv: Abul-i-Fazl mentioned them as objects of worship and
estimates their number as 360. Above the village a so-called ‘Svayambhu-Chakra’
or mystical diagram is shown on a rock. It is held sacred to Jwalamukhi-Durga
and largely visited by pilgrims especially the Pandits. The temple is situated
on the top of a small hillock. The Jwalaji festival falls on or about 16th
July every year. This shrine forms the Isht Devi of maximum Pandits of
the valley. Only a mile to the north of village Loduv is the village of Saar,
until recently the seat of a flourishing iron-industry. Kalhana mentioned it by
the name of Sanara as an Agrahara founded by King Sacinara. The Ziarat of Khwavu
Khizar, which stands here near several small springs. Wahab Khar was born in 19th
century at Saar. A blacksmith by profession he was also a Sufi saint. Wahab Khar
has projected “mysticism” in his poetry. His “Sheikh Sana”, “Mash
Tulur” and “Mehraj Name” are considered his best poetic creations.
Wahab Khar Passed away in 1912.
Close view of an Ancient Temple
To the south
of village Loduv, on the bank of the Vitasta lies the village of Latpor. An old
gloss of the Rajtarangini identifies it with Lalitapura, a place founded in
honour of King Lalitaditya by his architect. The king, according to the
Chronicle, was not pleased with the attention; in any case no importance seems
to have attached to the place. There are no old remains above ground, but the
local tradition still knows of King ‘Laltadit’ as the founder of a large town on
the neighbouring Udar.
Some I km to
the west of village Loduv is village Sempor. Some sources place this village as
the birth place of great woman saint of Kashmir, Lal Ded in the year 1335 A.D.
According to Guldastai Kashmir by Harpogal Koul, Loduv Pandit, a minister of Raja Saka during
2409-72 KE founded Loduv village. Loduv Pandit also built a temple there. Total
area of the village is 904.87 hectares and as per 19781 Census total population
of this village was 2820 souls comprising of 369 households. Kashmiri Pandit
community comprises 24 percent of total population of the village and was having
about 57 households. Eight households have held back after the mass exodus of
Kashmiri Pandits from the valley in the year 1990. I visited the village on 7th
March 2010; one Shri Ravi Ji Bhat son of Shri Nath Ji Bhat aged 43 of the same
village accompanied me.
M.A.Stein writes in
Kalhana’s Rajtarangini, “The Pargana, which adjoins Srinagar from the southeast,
in olden days, was known as Vihi. It extends from near Puranadhisthana to the
Vastur Van spur near Vountpur (Awantipora) and comprises a wide semicircular
tract of fertile karewa lands. In ancient times the district took its name from
the village of Khaduvi, the present Khrew”.
Loduv is known for two
ancient temples…a bigger one and a smaller one. The bigger temple is in the
middle of a shallow tank, which receives water from a spring in its North-East
corner. The temple simple in design, 24 feet square externally, supports a
domical ceiling. According to Pandit Ram Chand Kak “Externally the walls are
without decoration, their bareness being only partially relieved by a cornice
which consists of three courses of stone adorned with projecting fillets. The
corner pilasters are quite plain, and headed by a semicircular, almost
horseshoe-shaped, arch surmounted by a single storied pediment of very slight
projection. Internally the temple is circular with a diameter of 17 feet and 6
inches. The smaller temple is similar to the bigger one. Internally the temple
is 6 feet square and the ceiling consists of three courses of over lapping
stones. Inside the spring is a Shiva Linga made of lime stone”. According to
Pandit Kak, “A few yards behind this temple, higher up the hill and immediately
at the back of the mosque, a smaller temple which externally presents the same
appearance as the large temple, the only difference being that the projecting
pediment which enclosed the round-headed doorway has here developed into a
well-defined portico with a trefoil niche”. According to “Soon Adab”
published by Jammu and Kashmir Academy, 1977, the material of the smaller temple
has been used to build a Ziarat. At present there is no Shiva Linga in the
spring. This temple has been taken over by the Archeological Survey of India and
is being looked after by an employee of the same department.
Samadhi of Jeewan Sahib, recently renovated by State Government
There are two
more Shiva Temples in the village built by the Pandits of the village in recent
past. These temples have been built on the shades of mighty Chinars. Village
deity Raza Sahib called Tcharas Raza also lives near one of the
temples.
Gousein Naar
forms the part of village Loduv, situated some half km from the main village.
Ten Kashmiri Pandit families [nicknamed Gousein] were residing in this mohalla
of the village. All the ten families migrated out of Kashmir in the year 1990.
Jeewan Sahib
passed his last days of his life in a house at Gousein Naar. Jeewan Sahib, an
outstanding saint of the 18th century was born in Motiyar Mohalla of
Rainawari. He was a highly evolved saint with tremendous spiritual powers. It is
said that this great saint shifted from Rainawari to Gousein Naar in the 1779
and practiced sadhana in this village. All time Dooni was on
during his life time and it continued for some years after he attained
Mahasamadhi. The then Maharaja of Kashmir allotted him a jaggir of 80
kanals of land at Gousein Naar. Ten Kashmiri Pandit families were
residing in this mohalla of the village, who were brought there from Srinagar by
the then Maharaja of Kashmir to look after the land gifted to Jeewan Sahib.
All these
things are there but the people whose presence once thrived on the face of Loduv
are now few and far between.
Notes and References:
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Place Names in Kashmir