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Chadder - A Unique Mail
Line
by Chander M. Bhat
In Ladakh Division of Jammu and Kashmir Circle there are several mail lines
operated by departmental runners. Here, a brief description is given about a
mail line in Ladakh Division which although mechanized and yet is operated by
mail runners. The reason is the season. The mail line under discussion is the
Kargil-Padam (Zanaskar) mail line. This mail line remains operative during
summer from the month of June to September. The mails from Kargil to Padam are
carried through J&K State Road Transport Corporation Buses serving enroute
Sankoo S.O., Panikhar B.O., Parkachik B.O. and Padam S.O. This line remains
closed at the onset of winter from October to May. During October to December
about six runners serve the mail line from Parkachik BO to Padam SO in Zanaskar
Valley, till heavy snowfall on this route. With snowfall the high passes leading
to Padam are under deep snow thus rendering the Sankoo-Padam line inaccessible.
The only other way is by helicopter.
The unique method of mail conveyance adopted by
runners is via Chadder, the Zanaskar River. This river remains totally frozen
during January and February with temperature known to drop to minus 300 C.
During this time it is possible to walk on the frozen river all the way to Padam.
The river Zanaskar is a raging torrent during summer and negotiable only
downstream by white water rafting. Going upstream is out of question. The
starting point for upstream frozen river is near village Chilling. At many
places there is ice at the edges with fast flowing water at the centre, one
wrong step is definitely good-bye. Walls of the gorge are almost vertical upto
2000 ft, leaving no space to walk beside the river. Enroute there are several
caves in the walls along the route, which provide convenient shelter, where one
can take a halt. The halting stages on this ice route are Tilat Sumbo, Kharnak,
Nera 1, Hanumil, Pishu, Stonde, Nieraq and Pidmo village. Pidmo village has the
highest number of 15 houses.
This walk on frozen river is not as simple as it sounds. At many places the
river does not freeze completely and the runners have to wait for several days
for ice to form. The whole route length takes not less than 3 days to reach
Padam. Of course, one had to either walk back or fly out unless one wants to
stay at Padam till the high passes open in June. The mail runners walk back.
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