Tirtha of Amreshvara
By
M.M. Munshi
At the head of the
Sind Valley in Kashmir,
flanked on the North by great Himalayan range and Sachkach (Sasakat) mountains
in the south is located the holy Tirtha of Amar Nath Ji Cave "Amreshvara".
(340.12' : 750.01') at an altitude of 12, 720 ft. (3878m) where Suaymbhu
(self-created) the only Ice linga in the world, has been worshipped since early
historic if not prehistoric times. The earliest references pertaining to Holy
Amar Nath Ji Cave are found in Bhrngish Samhita (1) Nilmat Purana (2) Kalhana's
Raj Tarangni (3) Mahatmayas of Amarnatha (4) and Amreshvara Kalpa (5).
Mahatmayas :
According to Bhrngish Samhita
the Mahakala approached the "Devtas" and told them that they would have to die.
The devtas were troubled at this threat and proceeded to the abode of Swami
Surji (Lord Shiva) and entreated his protection. Shiva appeared to them with
bright countenance, showered upon them great favour and enquired about the cause
of their distress. The devtas explained that Mahakala was about to destroy them
and they dreaded his Power upon which Shiva with his great mercy and kindness
bestowed upon them the water of immortality by which the "devtas" were freed
from the persecution of Mahakala. After the devtas left, Shiva resumed his
devotional abstractions and when he was again sought by the devtas they could
not see him. They were, therefore, in great distress and lifted their hands in
prayer and entreated him to show Himself. Shiva appeared in the form of ice
linga and hence began the pilgrimage and prayers at Amreshvara.
The other view pertaining to
the formation of Ice Linga is that Shiva's consort Parvati was eager to learn
the secrets of life and immortality. She prayed to her lord to reveal the same
to her. While moving with the Parvati over the Himalayas, Shiva rested in a cave
and revealed the secrets of life to Parvati and got himself transformed into the
Ice Linga. A pair of snow pigeons over-heard Shiva's discourse and became
immortal. According to Bhrngish Samhita a person who bathes in the waters of
Amur Veth (Amuravati) and rubs himself with the ashes gets Moksha. A person who
performs Amarnath Ji Yatra after observing ablutions along the traditional
approach route gets the same boons as one gets from Ashvamedha Yagya.
A pilgrim who performs
ablutions at the sangam of Amur Veth and Panjtarnagini in Kalyug, gets pardon
for crores of sins. Pilgrimage to Amarnath Ji is considered several times more
auspicious than the pilgrimage to Kashi or Triveni. How Amarnath Ji cave could
have been originally discovered I quote from the life of Swami Vivekananda; "I
can well imagine how this cave was first discovered. A party of shepherds, one
summer day must have lost their flocks and wandered here in search of them. What
must have been their feeling as they found themselves unexpectedly before this
unmelting ice lingam of white camphor, with the vault itself dripping offerings
of water over it for centuries unseen of mortal eyes? When they came home they
whispered to other shepherds in the valleys how they had suddenly come upon
Mahadeva".
Physiography :
The mountain ranges in the
area include Great Himalaya trending North West-South East isolating Sindu
(Indus) basin (represented by Suru river) from that of Vitasta or Jhelum
(represented by Sind and Lidar rivers), and Chandarbaga or Chenab basin
(represented by Batkol-Marwah rivers). Saraibal a south westerly spur of great
Himalaya isolates Jhelum from Chenab basin. Another spur called Sachhkach (Sasakat)
of the Himalayas, bifurcating near Mushran, forms a water-parting between
Sind and Lidar rivers.
The Sachkach also follows a south-westerly trend and a Drun Nar or Hangsatu
immediately below Sonamarg is traversed by the
Sind river forming a narrow gorge beyond which it is known as
Sogput or North
Kashmir range isolating Kishenganga from the Kashmir Valley. The triangular mass
of mountains is bounded on the north by Sind Valley, on the east and south by
Lidar Valley and on the west by main valley of Kashmir with peaks of Kolahi or
Gashbrar, Mahadev and Suresvari. The latter, over looking Dal Lake with lakes of
Tarsar, Marsar and Hodsar has no modern name but was known in ancient times as
Dudavana.
A number of pilgrims and
authors in the past and recent times have wrongly referred to the snow beds and
snow fields along the Sind Valley, Chandanwari near Panjtarangni (Panjtarni),
and Amravati
as Glaciers. These snow beds (Sheendob) are nothing but fresh snow accumulated
in depressions by snow fall snow creep, avlanches and drift snow in winter.
A glacier (Handar in
Kashmiri) is a solid mass of ice moving down the slope along the valley with an
average velocity of 1 to 3 feet per day.
However, the vertical `U'
shaped profiles of almost all the valleys in the upper reaches of Kashmir,
including Sind and Lidar and their tributaries, have been carved by glaciers
during pliestocene times. The glaciers have since retreated to higher levels,
some have disappeared, while a few still remain like Kolahi, Koenjhar in the
South East of Sheshnag, Machoi near Zojilla pass, Harmukata (Harmukh) in upper
reaches of Sind and Amuravati near Mushran. In the area under review during the
pliestocene times glaciers extended much below down stream of Gagganjir and
Pahalgam in Sind and
Lidar valleys respectively.
Routes :
The holy Amar Nath Ji cave
though located in the Sind Valley beside a small tributary of Sind river called
Amar Veth or Amuravati (Amar Nath Nar) has been approached traditionally from
the Lidhari (Lidar) valley. According to Amreshvara Mahatmaya some of the
important places where pilgrims had to perform ablutions while on pilgrimage
where Anantnaga, Mach Bhawan
Route Map of Amarnath
:
(Mattan). Ganeshbal (Ganeshpora,
6,800 ft.) Mameshwar (Mamal 7,300 ft.) Nilganga. Chandanwari (9,220 ft.)
Shusshram Naga (Sheshnag 11,330 ft.), Panjtarangni (Panjtarni, 12,611 ft.) and
Amuravati. Between Sheshnag and Panjtarni the pilgrims crossed from Lidar to
Sind Valley at the pass of Vayuujana or Mahagnus (VOWJAN) 13835 ft. The
Sind valley route bifurcating from
Srinagar - Leh Highway at
Baltal was used in the past in early summers. During the late summers it used to
become very difficult and sometimes impossible due to melting of snow bridges
over the Sind river. But with the construction of a bridle path recently by the
army and border roads organisation this route has become negotiable throughtout
the summer. Amarnath Ji cave is also approachable by a very short foot track
from Zojilla pass which descends near the cave from the side of Amarnath Peak.
Another track branching off from Kishtwar-Suru-route, Via Marwah-Wardwan Batkol
Valley. Lidar valley via Gulol gati between Shesh Nag and Mahagnus (along which
the redoubtable Wazir Zorawar singh passed several times between 1834 to 1841
during the Dogra conquest of Ladakh, Baltistan and parts of
Western Tibet) enters. The least known route through
Saeki Pantsal Pass is the
most difficult route and has never been used by pilgrims.
History :
Like the mention of glaciers
along the Amarnath Ji route, the history of Amarnath Ji has also been wrongly
documented. Numerous writers in the recent past have maintained that Amarnath Ji
cave was lost for a very long time (like one saying 'for thousands of years')
till it was rediscovered by Maliks of Batkot. It is said to have been
`rediscovered' according to some in 1775 C.E. and according to others by about
1600 C.E., quoting old Kashmiri Pandits and Maliks of Batkot without any
authentic documentry evidence. Some have tried to give credit to the Maliks of
Batkot for having originally discovered the holy cave for the first time in the
middle of 18th Century C.E.
According to Kalhana's
Rajtarangni, Tarang II, Samdimat (Arya Raja) 34 BCE-17 C.E. a great devotee of
Shiva who rose from the position of Minister to be the King of Kashmir "used to
worship a Linga of snow above the forests, which is not to be found elsewhere in
the whole world during the delightful Kashmir Summers," He abandoned his
kingship and retired to Nandiksethra (Nandkul) Sind Valley to join a hermitage
where he was welcomed by old sages.
Kalhana further in Tarang I
of Rajtarangni narrates the legend of Naga Suravas who bestowed his daughter
Chandralekha upon a Brahmin youth who had helped the Naga in partaking the part
of harvest from the fields. King Nara whose domain flourished around Chakardara
(Tsakdar) near vijeshvara (Vijbror) cast an evil eye on the young Brahmin's Naga
wife, which aroused the wrath of Naga Suravas resulting in death of Nara and
destruction of later's kingdom. After completing the frightful carnage the Naga
took his son-in-law (Zamatur, in Kashmiri) along and carved a place for him
besides his own abode, Shushram Naga (Shesh nag). Kalhana says : "It is seen to
this day (i.e. 1148-49 C.E.) by pilgrims proceeding to Amreshvara". Upstream of
Shushramnaga towards Koenjnar glacier is located a smaller lake cased
Jamtarsaras (Zamtirnag) the residence of this Brahmin son-in-law transformed
into a Naga. The full translation of the verse 267 Book I of Kalhana's
Rajtarangni, reproduced below leaves no doubt about the continuation of the
pilgrimage to Amarnath Ji during the middle of 12th Century.
The lake of dazzling witness
(resembling) a sea of Milk, which he created (for himself as residence) on a far
off mountain, is to the present day seen by the people on the pilgrimage to
Amreshvara' Stein's, Translation.
The fact that Kind
Zain-ul-abdin (1420-70 C.E.) the pious Muslim ruler of Kashmir, besides visiting
a number of Hindu shrines, also visited Amarnath Ji cave, has been documented by
his chronicler Jonaraja.
Francios Bernier, was the
French Physician who accompanied Emperor Aurangzeb to Kashmir in 1663. After
visiting Trisandiya, Verinag, Achabal, Wular lake, Sangsafed in front of Harmukh,
he was just after two-days' march from some place in Sind Valley, in a
magnificient cave full of wonderful congealations"; apparently Amarnath Ji cave.
When he was called back by Aurangzeb. The relevant para of the Bernier's book
"Travels in Moghul Empire" is reproduced here. "I was pursuing journey to a
grotta full of wonderful congelations, two days journey from Sangsafed when I
received intelligence that my Nawab felt very impatient and uneasy on account of
my long absence".
The 2nd edition of Bernier's
book has been edited by vincient A Smith who has observed, "The grotta full of
wonderful congelations is the Amarnath cave, where blocks of ice, stalagmites
formed by dripping water from roof are worshipped by many Hindoos who resort
here, as images of Shiva; glaciers surround the ..... which is considerably to
the South East of ..."
Pilgrimage :
Vigne in his book "Travels in
Kashmir, Ladakh and Iskardu" (1842) says; "The ceremony at the cave of Amarnath
takes place on the 15th of the Hindu month of Sawan, 28th July . . . not only
Hindoos of Kashmir but those from Hindoostan of every rank and caste can be
seen, collecting together and travelling up the valley of Lidar towards the
celebrated cave, which from his description must have been the place which
Bernier intended to visit but was prevented."
Vigne himself, after
returning from Ladakh and Tibet by 1840-41, during the rule of Maharaja Sher
Singh son of Maharaja Ranjit Singh of Punjab attempted to visit Amarnath Ji cave
along the traditional route via Sheshnag in late season, but was forced to
return from Vowjan pass due to bad weather. He has given a beautiful description
of the pilgrimage, gathered from others, which indicates that pilgrimage was in
good vogue before 1840-41. From his narrative we can easily conclude that
pilgrims from the plains, outside Kashmir, visited Amarnath in great numbers.
From this it is clear that
Amar Nath has been visited in regular memory, the Yatra has been continuously
undertaken not only by Kashmiris but also Hindus from other parts of
India.
Even if it is assumed that the holy shrine was 'rediscovered' by Maliks of
Batkot, for which no authentic document is available it can be easily surmised
that Amarnath Ji cave was not `lost' for thousands of years, The pilgrimage may
have been disrupted due to political upheavals and persecution of Hindus during
Muslim rule in Kashmir for a period varying at the most from 50 to 125 years.
Lawrence
in Valley of Kashmir mentions that pilgrims to Amarnath were joined by Brahmins
of Mattan and further up at Batkot the Maliks used to take charge of the
pilgrimage. According to Lawrence the Maliks were supposed to keep the track in
order, guide, escort the pilgrims and carry sick ones and ensure nothing was
stolen, and received one third of the offerings at the Amarnath Ji Shrine. The
other two shares used to go to Pandits of Mattan and Giri Mahants of Amritsar
who used to and still lead the pilgrimage with Chari Mubarak, Lawrence does not
mention any where that share of offerings to Maliks was in lieu of their having
discovered/rediscovered' the cave. There is no mention of receipt of ransum
rahdhari from pilgrims nor grants from the State Govt. for the services rendered
by Maliks. Apparently the share seems to have been received by Maliks for the
services rendered.
Rediscovery :
Besides Lawrence, earlier
travellers and authors in Kashmir have also not mentioned about `rediscovery' of
Amarnath Ji cave by Maliks. It is not difficult to conclude that Amarnath Ji
cave could not have been lost during the short span of 50 to 125 years during
which the yatra might not have seen the traditional pomp and show, and may have
remained a low-key affair in view of the adverse political climate.
The theory that the Maliks
having `discovered' or `rediscovered' the Amarnath Ji cave in or around 1775 C.E.
is also constrained by the adversity of that time. At that time Kashmir was
ruled by Afghans (1753-1819 C.E.) who persecuted Kashmiris in general and Hindus
in particular. Afghans would not have taken kindly to Maliks, or anybody else,
claiming to have 'rediscovered' any Hindu or Buddhist shrine. Such a `discovery'
even if it had been made would have been kept under wraps. It is also highly
improbable to presume that pilgrimage to a `lost' Amarnath Ji cave could have
been resumed during the Afghan rule for reasons mentioned above. Moreover, all
the passes and routes with the exception of Baramulla-Muzafarabad route which
they needed for direct communication with Kabul were closed for traffic during
the Afghan rule and hardly any Hindu pilgrim from plains could have entered
Kashmir and reached Amarnathji.
According to Prof. O. N.
Chrungoo, the Amarnath Ji cave was rediscovered by Maliks of Batkot by about
1600 C.E. i.e. during the rule of Emperior Akbar, that pilgrimage again remained
in abeyance during the Afghan rule ((1753-1819) and was resumed only after
Maharaja Gulab Singh arrived on the scene in 1846. Maliks themselves claim that
they discovered the cave by 1775 and Pervez Dewan in his article Discovery of
Lord Shiva's cave temple in Daily Excelsior also states that the rediscovery of
cave was made some times between 1750-1775. All these claims are contradictory
and can not be accepted as factual. As already indicated pilgrimage was going on
during the Sikh rule long before Gulab Singh appeared on the scene.
Maliks :
In order to arrive at a
logical conclusion we have to understand the history and background of the
institution of Maliks. According to Baron Von Hugel, Malik is a title of honour
and distinction given to successors of Devarpatis, Margesas (later called Magres)
holding charge of watch-cum-military stations on feudal basis on the important
routes and passes, entering and leaving Kashmir, by the independent Sultans of
Kashmir and also to other clans like Chaks, Rainas, Dars for latter's loyal
service. After the annexation of Kashmir by Mughals in 1586 C.E. most of the
Maliks of Raina, Magrey and Chak clans etc. who had fought against the former
were hunted out killed and banished from Kashmir. Some of them escaped to remote
and inaccessible hills and valleys to avoid persecution. But those who latter
submitted themselves before Akbar and took the oath of loyalty were allowed to
resume the duty of guarding the routes, administration and even judiciary. All
routes except the Baramulla-Muzafarabad route remained closed during the
Afghan's rule.
With the advent of Dogra rule
in 1846, opening up of all the routes and gradual establishment of police posts
at vulnerable places, the ancestral occupation of Maliks came to end. Since the
latter part of 19th century the Maliks had to content themselves with guiding,
and escorting the pilgrims to Amarnath Ji, Harmukh, probably to Sharda in
Kishenganga valley and other places of pilgrimage. The allotment of a part of
offerings, as at the Amarnath shrine, could have been in lieu of these services.
Since all the arrangements
including maintenance of track, erection of sheds enroute, medical care and
protection for pilgrims are now made by the government and several voluntarily
non-government organisations, the receipt of the one third of the offerings by
the Maliks is a historical relic, comparable to now abolished Jagirdaris and
privy purses. Further research would have to be carried out as to how old was
the settlement to Maliks at Batkot as it is located on an unimportant route
through which no invasions of Kashmir were attempted or expected nor trade
carried out.
Prof. Chrungoo in his article
has stated that "some people interested in anthropological or geological
research have said that it is an encrustation of lime; chalcedony and
archeological research by Pandit Anand Koul has revealed otherwise." It is true
that several observations made by people about Amarnath Ji cave are not factual
including one in "Tirtha" published by CMC Ltd. (11) that Amarnath is an ice
covered linga, "Similarly chalcedony is a variety of silica with waxy lustre and
can not get assimilated by water or ice under any circumstances.
However scientifically
speaking ice linga is somewhat like an icicle and my contain dissolved
bicarbonate of calcium (lime) which cannot be visualy seen. Anthropology is the
science of physiological, physiosocio logical and racial study of man while as
archeology deals with things used, or made, by man from prehistoric to medieval
times both having absolutely no scope for research at Amarnath Ji cave.
A news item under the
caption, "Another cave Shiva temple in upper Pahalgam" appeared in the Daily
Excelsior of 28th August 2001 stating that another cave not far away from the
Amarnathji cave, which is being visited by over one hundred thousand pilgrims
every year, had been discovered. The news report reiterated that old Amarnath Ji
cave was discovered by Maliks in 1775 and ruins, besides the (new) cave, suggest
that a Dogra Governor of Maharaja Ranjit Singh's rule attempted to build a Shiva
temple at the spot in 18th century. Firstly the presumption of a Dogra Governor
having built a temple during the 18th Century is the height of imagination of
the correspondant. All the governors during the Sikh rule in Kashmir without
exception were Sikhs or Punjabi muslims; Sikhs ruled
Kashmir between 1819-46 that is 19th century and not 18th century.
As already discussed Amarnath
Ji cave was known centuries before 1775.
Return Halt :
Prevez Dewan has hypothesised
that the newly rediscovered Shiva cave temple near Hapatgund could have been a
base camp for Amarnathji yatra. That postulation too, does not stand scrutiny,
as the new cave is not located along the traditional route along which lie the
different tirthas at which performance of ablutions was a must for a merit-ful
yatra. According to Vigne (1842) and Gates (1872) the pilgrims used to approach
Amarnathji cave from Panjtarni and Bhairobal and after having darshan returned
passing down the Amurveth upto its Sangam with Sind, from where they found their
way back to Pahalgam by a different route from the one by which they arrived via
Hatiara Talab (where scores) of pilgrims have perished. They crossed the water
shed between Sind and Lidar valleys by a pass West of Sachkach (sasakot) peak,
Astanmarg and Zanin, The Hapatgund cave temple which lies along this route could
have been a halting place on the return journey. The spring described by Parvez
Dewan is well known and is shown on the survey map of the area. Swami
Vivekananda also returned via this route in 1895 and described the Hatiara Talav
as celebrated lake of death. This route was abandoned in early 20th Century for
being the most difficult and dangerous one.
Regarding newly discovered
temple at Hapathgund (Slaiv Van) the identification of top-knot on the head and
serpent coiled round the neck of the idol, and presumbly a trisual and a yoni
shaped tank some distance away from the caves, leaves no doubt that the cave
houses an ancient Shiva temple.
Since the idols according to
Pervez Dewan are in situ i.e. rocks in original position, not transported by
natural or human agencies and presence of such a large number of Shivlings in a
limited space and their damage by water indicate the possibility of the idols
and shivlings being natural stalagmites formed by percolation of calcium
bicarbonate bearing water and subsequently scuptured by man. Wind action can
carve rock shelters and not caves in areas under review which receive moderate
to high rain or snowfall. Neither the caves nor the rocks inside can be carved
by wind but mostly by percolation of carbon dioxide laden water and occasionally
by joining and fracturing. The sculpturing and carving of idols inside the
pre-existing caves and construction of yoni shaped tank might have been possibly
done as a token of thanks giving by pilgrims returning from a successful yatra
of Amarnathji. A number of temples built at Wangat in
Sind
Valley
by pilgrims, after returning from Harmukh shows that such, indeed, was the
practice.
Present Status :
Despite the turmoil of
militancy prevailing for more than a decade, Amarnathji continues to be one of
the most popular Tirthas of Kashmir, and lakhs of Pilgrims from all parts of the
country visit the shrine inspite of the fact that a few of them fall victim to
militant attacks. The number of aspirants for pilgrimage has always been more
than the Government does allow for security reasons.
Conclusion :
The only Ice Linga in the
whole world, at the Amarnathji cave, has been visited and worshipped by pilgrims
since early historic if not prehistoric times. There is conclusive historic
evidence that pilgrims were regularly proceeding to the holy cave via Sheshnag
during the middle of 12th century and in middle of 15th century. The Shrine was
well known even during the rule of Aurangzeb when Bernier attempted to visit it
but was prevented. There is no evidence to prove that the Amarnath Ji cave was
`lost' for thousands of years until it was `rediscovered' by Maliks of Batkot
some time between 1750-75.
The pilgrimage to Amarnathji
might have been disrupted during the political upheavals for period varying
between 50 to 125 years. Full pilgrimage was resumed after annexation of
Kashmir by Sikhs and since then the Giri Mahants of
Amritsar have been associated
with the Yatra; the track might have been retraced by Maliks. Maliks have been
receiving one-third of the offerings of the shrine for keeping the track in
order, guiding and escorting the pilgrims etc. rather than for `discovering' or
`rediscovering' the cave.
The newly discovered Lord
Shiva's cave temple near Hapatgund could not have been a base camp for Amarnath
Yatra but a halting place on the return journey. The cave temples are man-made
only to the extent of sculpturing of pre-existing stalagmites.
Despite the disturbed
condition prevailing in
Kashmir pilgrims in large numbers still throng the Shrine.
Source: Kashmir
Sentinel
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